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Routes in Shady Side

Missionary Position S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5 AM Lookouts, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginning , The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Critical Mass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dark Energy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Entropy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Extinction S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
F.Y.M. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fella's, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Flirting With Mutants S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flying off the Handle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippy's Wrath S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Indifference S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jumping to Conclusions S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Age Disciples S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nuetrino Drizzle S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Petrophyte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polluting the Gene Pool S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Run Bunny, Run S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S.T.D. S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slap Happy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem From Heck, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vacuum Genesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Black Rocks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
What Was I Thinking S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Windmill T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Your Problem S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: T. Goss, M. Tupper
Page Views: 591 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 7, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Climb straight up and then make a difficult traverse left to gain the 2nd bolt (hard to clip, crux). From here, go straight up aiming for positive holds on the black face above. This route felt hard for the grade. I assume a few key holds may have been damaged from the rockfall on the neighboring Ginsu. Nice climb though!

Location

Walk along the trail approximately 20 ft right of the start of Flying Off the Handle, 5.12b. Start at the pile of rubble (note the bolt in one of the blocks on the ground, the block fell off of Ginsu, 5.11c).

Protection

4 bolts, shuts on Slap Happy, 5.12c.

Photos

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Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Returning 5 years later after my first attempt and being much stronger, I still found this route to be quite difficult between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. It's also a little spicy there as you would get pretty close to decking if you blow the 3rd clip, or at a minimum, you're going to fall on your belayer! That aside, this route has awesome sequences and is truly worthy of a go if its not too close to your limit. Jan 19, 2015

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