Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd Goss
Page Views: 1,491 total · 13/month
Shared By: triznuty on Nov 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Access Issue: Closed March 15 through June 30 Details

Description

Crimpy beginning to a steep finish.

Location

Sunny-side, 40' to the right of Black Hole Sun.

Protection

4 bolts, plus anchors.

Photos

grego
SLC, Utah
grego   SLC, Utah
Good climb. Very bouldery start followed by smooth sailing. Jan 7, 2010
uncasid
  5.10b/c
uncasid  
  5.10b/c
i honestly dont think this is an 11.. did a hold break off? Dec 31, 2012
It's only 5.11 if you crank the direct start. It is much easier traversing in from the side. Jun 5, 2013
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
  5.10d
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
  5.10d
Crimpy direct start. The start moves may qualify as 5.11 if encountered higher up on a long route. Pulling the crimps right off the ground with fresh arms make it feel more like 5.10+. The rest of the climb is a formality. Jan 20, 2014
Leron
  5.11b
Leron  
  5.11b
I think the grade controversy is due to the height dependent finish. Some can reach the chains from a big hold kind low. Some have to reach out right and gain the chains via some slopers. My guess is below 5' 6" this is an 11 and above that height this is a 10. Feb 22, 2016