Elevation: 2,258 ft
GPS: 36.914, -113.84 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 87,230 total · 637/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

Description

There are two camps when it comes to the VRG: Those who scoff at the idea of ever climbing there and the die-hard few who swear it is the best climbing in the country. The truth is the VRG has some of the worst scenery of any climbing area, but some of the best rock. If you can get past not being able to hear yourself think (or your partner for that matter), ugly road cuts, graffiti, and sometimes inhospitable temperature extremes, you will be rewarded with difficult, sustained lines, fantastic movement, and plenty of hard climbing.

Grades pretty much start at 5.12 here, and the best lines are in the hard 12 and up range. Climbing exists on both the sunny, north side of the gorge (Sun Cave, Sun Wall, and Fossil Cave) and the shady south side (Mentor Cave, Planet Earth Wall, Blasphemy Wall). Bring draws and a 60 or 70m rope. Generally, climbing season is from October to April. Summer months are hot.

Getting There

From the North: Take I-15 South from Saint George. After mile marker 14 cross a bridge over the Virgin River. Park immediately after this at a pullout on the right by an immense embankment/dirt mound. From the South, continue past the VRG to exit 18, turn around and follow above directions. There is camping amongst the used syringes and condoms in a gravel pit just north of the highway at exit 18.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Brutus
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Bloody Mary
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 16
Don't Believe the Hype
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 49
Mentor
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Forever Man
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Bowser
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
High Flames Drifter
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Dirt Cowboy
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Sunburst
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 18
Joe Six Pack
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
I Saw Jesus at the Chains
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Dark Boy
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Fall of Man
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 3
Hell Comes To Frogtown
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 5
Horse Latitudes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brutus Mentor Cave
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bloody Mary Blasphemy Wall
 17
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Don't Believe the Hype Planet Earth Wall
 16
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mentor Mentor Cave
 49
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Forever Man Sun Cave
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bowser Mentor Cave
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
High Flames Drifter Blasphemy Wall
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dirt Cowboy Planet Earth Wall
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Sunburst Sun Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Joe Six Pack Planet Earth Wall
 18
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
I Saw Jesus at the Chains Blasphemy Wall
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Dark Boy Blasphemy Wall
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Fall of Man Blasphemy Wall
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Hell Comes To Frogtown Mentor Cave
 3
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Horse Latitudes Planet Earth Wall
 5
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virgin River Gorge »

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Photos

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
If coming from south, there is a huge dirt road pullout right after mile marker 13 on the right side that you can park at rather than doing the loop around if you prefer. Oct 22, 2012
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
It is not recommended to leave any valuables in your car while climbing at the VRG. The meth heads who patrol this highway corridor will smash your window and nick your stuff without haste. Feb 14, 2014
Matt Jones
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt Jones   Colorado Springs, CO
Is there a guide book for this place? Nov 8, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ