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Elevation: 2,258 ft 688 m
GPS: 36.91368, -113.84038
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

There are two camps when it comes to the VRG: Those who scoff at the idea of ever climbing there and the die-hard few who swear it is the best climbing in the country. The truth is the VRG has some of the worst scenery of any climbing area, but some of the best rock. If you can get past not being able to hear yourself think (or your partner for that matter), ugly road cuts, graffiti, and sometimes inhospitable temperature extremes, you will be rewarded with difficult, sustained lines, fantastic movement, and plenty of hard climbing.

Grades pretty much start at 5.12 here, and the best lines are in the hard 12 and up range. Climbing exists on both the sunny, north side of the gorge (Sun Cave, Sun Wall, and Fossil Cave) and the shady south side (Mentor Cave, Planet Earth Wall, Blasphemy Wall). Bring draws and a 60 or 70m rope. Generally, climbing season is from October to April. Summer months are hot.

Getting There Suggest change

From the North: Take I-15 South from Saint George. After mile marker 14 cross a bridge over the Virgin River. Park immediately after this at a pullout on the right by an immense embankment/dirt mound. From the South, continue past the VRG to exit 18, turn around and follow above directions. There is camping amongst the used syringes and condoms in a gravel pit just north of the highway at exit 18.

75 Total Climbs

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Location: Virgin River Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Virgin River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 34
Bloody Mary
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 82
Mentor
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Sunburst
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 24
Forever Man
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Bowser
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
High Flames Drifter
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Dirt Cowboy
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
 6
[Redacted]
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Wowser
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 27
Joe Six Pack
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
I Saw Jesus at the Chains
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 6
Bowser Wowser
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Dark Boy
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 13
Fall of Man
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 5
Horse Latitudes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bloody Mary Blasphemy Wall
 34
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mentor Mentor Cave
 82
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sunburst Sun Wall
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Forever Man Sun Cave
 24
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bowser Mentor Cave
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
High Flames Drifter Blasphemy Wall
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dirt Cowboy Planet Earth Wall
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
[Redacted] Blasphemy Wall
 6
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Wowser Mentor Cave
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Joe Six Pack Planet Earth Wall
 27
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
I Saw Jesus at the Chains Blasphemy Wall
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Bowser Wowser Mentor Cave
 6
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Dark Boy Blasphemy Wall
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Fall of Man Blasphemy Wall
 13
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Horse Latitudes Planet Earth Wall
 5
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Virgin River Gorge »

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