Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shotgun Alley

A Red Sun Rises S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Awesome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Birdshot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue-Collar Tweekers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Breakfast at Tiffany's S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buckshot Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clay Pigeons S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Combing Up Sars S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fancy Pants S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flaptastic S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Cockamouse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghost Goop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Graffiti Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ignoramus S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jump Start S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kalamazoo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Lee Van Cleef S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Legendary S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
M&M S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mr. Krinkle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My Left Foot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nasty, Brutish and Short S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pineapple Incident, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Professor Nutbutter's House Of Treats S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quick Sand S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sacred Cow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shotgun Shuffle, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Silly Putty S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sink the Pink S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Southbound Pachyderm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spaghetti Western S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Suit Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ten-legged Interspecies Cha-cha S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tommy the Cat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Puppies S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TreeBeard's Beard S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
True Story S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Two Thumbs Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vomit Free Since Ninety Three S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wait for It S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
premature Gratification S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
priorities T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 3,062 ft
GPS: 37.171, -113.714 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,249 total · 188/month
Shared By: Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 6, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This little crag sits on a parcel of SITLA land next to the Shivwits Indian Reservation. The climbs are on the two cliff bands framing the Santa Clara river. There are several hours worth of fine (albeit short) bolted routes, together with a few practice trad lines that can be protected via cracks. Most routes require you to set up an equalized sling anchor draped over the top edge using the two easily accessible anchor bolts before climbing the route. The short length of the routes and ease of putting up a top rope (as long as you remember your sliding X sling and carabiners) make this a good area for introducing novice climbers to the sport.

On the cliff band closest to the road and parking area (referred to as the "near" cliff band in route descriptions) routes tend to be clustered in two areas. There is a northern cluster of routes (to the far left on the cliff band visible in the photo) and a southern cluster of routes (approximate middle of cliff band visible in the photo). There are also a few scattered routes on the far southern end of the cliff (not visible in the photo). Gaining access to the cliff band across the river (the "far" cliff band in route descriptions) requires wading the river and negotiating the steep boulder field.

The rock is a conglomerate, can be flaky, and most routes require quite a bit of cleaning. It will take some time before all the loose parts have been completely worked away. Holds are often thin and sharp. The climbing style for the most part is technical and delicate rather than steep and powerful.

Easy access to the area tends to draw gun shooting and garbage dumping types. Until recently large numbers of spent shotgun shells littered the area, hence the name. It is slowly being cleaned up and has the potential to turn into a pleasant spot next to a scenic stretch of river.

Getting There

From the Bluff St/Sunset Blvd intersection in St. George drive west on Sunset Blvd (turns into old Hwy 91) for 7.6 miles. At the right turn sign for Kayenta make a left turn instead and park at the side of the road next to a fenced area and gate.

There is a SITLA no-trespass sign posted at the gate. The fence, gate and sign are recent additions due to damage caused by off-road vehicles, dumping, and people shooting guns that can potentially start fires. Climbers will be allowed to use the area as long as we do not contribute to these problems.

Enter the area through the walk-in gate and hike a short distance (about 5 mins) to the cliffs framing the river.

42 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Shotgun Alley Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Shotgun Alley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Shotgun Alley »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

scottashby
Rexburg, Idaho
scottashby   Rexburg, Idaho
Here from Idaho visiting family. This is a great area to climb. Lots of routes at various difficulties. I love that you can lead or top rope the majority of these climbs. Just bring slings because of the the top anchors are bolts on the top face, not the climbing face. Apr 18, 2014
Jared R  
Went to scope these out today and it was raining the entire time so we never got to climb. The Rock is super solid and is almost identical to that of the Gunks in New York. It seems to be hard enough to climb when wet, as we were pulling on lots of holds (not any on existing routes) and there was no breakage. It has been raining in the St. George area for a solid week now so if they were able to be broken when wet they would have. Like I said, this rock type looks and feels identical to that at the Gunks in New York. I can't wait to actually climb some of the routes. There is so much potential for more great routes in this area. Sep 11, 2013
javi
saint george area
javi   saint george area
Bouldering and trad climbing a few minutes east ad well Jul 29, 2012
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
The routes west of the river are a bit of a pain to get to since you have to wade the river and then negotiate the talus slope. They also tend to be steeper, harder, and more painful on the fingers. Oct 21, 2011
Climbed "wait for it" and "awesome" today. First time out there. Neat area and easy access, looking forward to going back soon. Thanks again for all the bolted routes. Very delicate routes that require thin holds but everything we climbed was solid.

Any info on the routes on the west side of river? Oct 19, 2011
Tyler Slack
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Tyler Slack   Eagle Mountain, Utah
Nate and I went to climb in this area today and ran into some new fences and No Trespassing signs put up by SITLA. I called Kim Christy at the Salt Lake office who referred me to Kyle Paisley in the Southern Utah office so we could get word about future climbing in this area.

Kyle explained that they're more concerned about motorized vehicles and dumping in the area. He said that there have been 5 brush fires this year alone and they felt that they needed to do something about it.

We got permission to walk in and climb today and I hope that in the future we can drive in as long as we're not rednecks. I asked permission to post an update on this website and he said that would be fine, so I'm spreading the word. Climbing is ok despite the No Trespassing signs, but be advised...your redneck activities will be prosecuted. ;) Aug 3, 2011
Started a new route in shotgun. Its to the right of silly putty on the face. Only put in one bolt on the route but the top to bolts are in and glued so no theft is possible. (very sad to come to this) Worked best top rope with a sling and there was no rope drag. I will finish it next time i am back in town. Jul 22, 2011
Dan Lay  
Ha Ha since when did Biology teachers climb? Dec 12, 2010
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
The area with all the cool petroglyphs is not far from here (maybe 1-2 miles away) and is definitely worth a visit too. Jul 18, 2010
Aren't there a bunch of nice little pictographs spread around these cliffs? Jul 18, 2010

More About Shotgun Alley

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Shotgun Alley (66)

Most Popular · Newest