Elevation: 3,700 ft
GPS: 37.026, -113.907 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 143,727 total · 802/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 11, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

The Woodbury Road Crags are a collection of 3 limestone sport crags in the extreme southwestern corner of Utah, only a few miles from the Arizona border. The collective name of the crags comes from the road into the Woodbury Desert Study Area, in which Angus M. Woodbury and Ross Hardy performed the original ecological study of the Desert Tortoise in the 1930's and 1940's. In 1980 the Study Area was part of 35 square miles designated as "critical habitat" for the threatened Utah population of tortoises.

In 2006 a fire burned large areas of the Study Area, including the area surrounding the crags. Compare the photograph of Kelly's Rock in Todd Goss's Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, 2nd Ed. with the
Kelly's Rock, right side. in Mountain Project.

Because the climbing areas are within designated critical habitat it is imperative that climbers respect the landscape, flora, and fauna. It is particularly important to be careful while the area recovers from fire. Desert areas are notoriously fragile and slow to recover from disruption because the arid environment means plant growth is very slow, and erosion is very slow to erase scars.

Note also that the crags are relatively remote. There is probably no cellphone coverage (but I forgot to check) and the nearest town of consequence (sorry Littlefield) is Mesquite, NV, approximately 20 miles away.

Two of the crags, Black and Tan and Kelly's Rock, are within a 5 minute walk of each other and can be reached with a low clearance, 2WD vehicle on a good quality graded road. The third, The Solstice, is about a half mile or so from the others and requires a high-clearance vehicle, or a short walk past a steep, loose section of the road. Note that route development is ongoing at the crags.

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition is highly recommended and can be picked up in Saint George at The Desert Rat.

Getting There

From Saint George: Take Bluff Street north to Sunset Blvd (the three-lane left turn at the north end of town). Turn left and drive 11.2 miles to the Gunlock turnoff. Bear left (don't turn towards Gunlock) and continue another 15.0 miles to the Woodbury Road turnoff on the left. (Note that these mileages are different from those reported in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah. Different vehicles, I suppose). The GPS coordinates listed on this page are for the turnoff.

From the Mesquite or Las Vegas direction: From I-15 northbound exit at the Littlefield exit (exit 8, a few miles past Mesquite) and head north on Cane Beds Road. This turns into Old US 91 at the Utah border. The Woodbury Road turnoff will be on the right about 1.9 miles past the Utah border (according to Google Earth—I haven't recorded the mileages when I've driven this).

The turnoff sign reads:
Mojave Desert
Joshua Tree Road
Scenic Backway

83 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Woodbury Road Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Glutton for Punishment
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 54
Topless Vegetables
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
The Awakening
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 66
Crime and Punishment
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 51
Resolve
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 57
Rending of Garments
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
K-5
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
Tag Team
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
Hubris
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 110
K-8
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 100
K-6
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 56
Shades of Grey
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 45
Czech Frogs Say Qua
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 47
Jumanji
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glutton for Punishment Black & Tan
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Topless Vegetables Kelly's Rock
 54
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Awakening Kelly's Rock
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crime and Punishment Black & Tan
 66
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Resolve Black & Tan
 51
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rending of Garments Kelly's Rock
 57
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
K-5 Kelly's Rock
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Tag Team Kelly's Rock
 72
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Magic Carpet Ride Black & Tan
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Hubris Kelly's Rock
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
K-8 Kelly's Rock
 110
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
K-6 Kelly's Rock
 100
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Shades of Grey Black & Tan
 56
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Czech Frogs Say Qua Kelly's Rock
 45
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jumanji Black & Tan
 47
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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