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Routes in Kelly's Rock

A Force To Be Reckoned With S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another Day at the Office S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Awakening, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Czech Frogs Say Qua S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Defoliant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demagogue S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gnashing of Teeth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harsh Rhetoric S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heeler, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hookup, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hubris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
K-1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K-3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
K-4 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
K-6 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-7 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
K-8 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-9 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Kitty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mayhem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Recidivist S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rending of Garments S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tag Team S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Topless Vegetables S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet My Whistle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zealot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Oldrid
Page Views: 3,149 total · 22/month
Shared By: richard magill on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

This route is named "k-8" because it originally was the eighth route from the left side. Now it about the 11th or 12th, so things have changed a little.

Anyway, Todd Goss calls this "one of the best routes in Utah". Wow... strong statement! However, I am hard pressed to argue with him - I can't think of another one at the 11b grade that is as good as this.

Great pockets and edges through a couple of roofs, everything but the kitchen sink on this line.

Location

Starts right on top of the big boulder in the middle of the crag. there are about 10 lines left of the big boulder. 2 lines leave the top of the boulder, this is the right most of the two.

Protection

7 bolts to Anchors.

Photos

McRae Williams  
5.11b
Got on this route over the weekend; best i've done yet. The rock is unbelievable and the flow of the line is amazing. No real crux in my opinion, just stay with it and enjoy the climbing. Oct 20, 2008
Riddler
Sammamish, WA
 
Riddler   Sammamish, WA
 
Bulletproof rock, fun moves, perfect holds. A little soft for the grade. I just wish it was longer! Dec 2, 2008
jhump  
No real crux? Were we on the same route? If you climb this route, you will know where the crux is. I bet you can pick it out from the ground. Mar 27, 2010
ZachBradford  
 
Bad beta may have created a definite crux. Every move can be done statically with 3 points on.
The roof can be tricky to negotiate but with a bit of patience, beta can be discovered that makes the movement pretty straight forward. (No throw involved)
I only say this so someone who avoids dynamic movement won't avoid getting on the route. The route is an excellent 11b, not the best in Utah but well worth the time. Apr 4, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
Been trying to come to terms with the 'best route in Utah' statement for years and just don't see it. In fact, the more I do this route the more I think Goss is either insane or sandbagging. It's super sharp with no hands rests all over the place. I'd call quite a few of the other routes at Kelly's more fun and it's not close to the best wall in Utah. It's not even the best wall in a walking 10 minute radius. Apr 24, 2011
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
 
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
 
What is the best beta then to overcome the first roof? I got shut down there when I tried it. Jul 4, 2011
ZachBradford  
 
Without saying more than some people want to hear, it involves a pretty blind reach over the lip of the roof(holds are good enough below roof you can feel around if necessary).... Establish on the holds then look for a high-step on the lip of the roof. Its not a great foothold, but trust it and it works. I'm 5' 7" and can reach all the holds to do the moves static. Jul 6, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Super fun. Not the best in utah but certainly the most fun at this crag. The 2nd roof at the top has monster jugs! Aug 31, 2014
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
I totally agree with steve. Sharp, awkward crux, split up by many no hands rests.

There is a very definitive crux. There are some other tricky moves, but I literally felt as if this climbs grade boiled down to whether or not you could pull the crux move(s).

I kinda felt like this one was a big joke too. "Tell them its the most classic, they'll all come to this one crag with just a handful of routes..." Jan 23, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11a/b
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
  5.11a/b
The stars speak for themselves. Just do it. Super fun route.

Historical note: all the "K" routes at this crag were put up by Kelly Oldroyd from Salt Lake City. Jun 13, 2017
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
 
Good route, however, the fact that you can stand and chill no hands halfway up the route disqualifies this route from "best route in Utah" claims without a doubt... Feb 11, 2018

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