Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 3,435 total · 21/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

A long, low-angled, fun climb on sharp limestone. Lots of positive holds, including the edges of a couple of flakes. The rock is rough enough and the climb low-angled enough you could probably smear all the way up if you wanted to.

Location

At the left side of this crag is a big, obvious roof (the left of the two big roofs) with a gentle ramp rising right-to-left under it. At the end of the ramp is an obvious small rock tower below a rounded ridge which forms the left edge of the main face of the Black and Tan crag.

Just right of that small tower is a sheltered, flat platform above which is a notch with a bolt in it, leading to more bolts above. This is the start of the route Redolence.

Glutton for Punishment is on the left side of the small rock tower. It's easy to get around the tower by dropping down from the platform and following ledges around to its left side, then up to a wide gentle area below a moderate slab rising to the left of the rounded ridge.

Glutton starts from bottom center of slab with two tan-painted bolts above, leading to a gentle diagonal right-to-left ramp about 25-30 feet up.

The rounded ridge has two obvious left-facing inside corners (Redolence goes up roughly in between those two corners). After its second bolt, Glutton crosses right across the ramp (while another bolt line continues more left), then goes up roughly along the left one of those two corners (which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the ridge -- then finishes right to a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (shared with Redolence) at the top of the ridge.

Protection

8 bolts to Metolius rap anchors (with a quicklink on the left anchor). The rock is rough, there are some sharp edges, and the climb is low-angled so we belayed from the top and then the belayer rappelled rather than lowered to save wear and tear (and worry).

Photos