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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 2,486 total, 19/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

A long, low-angled, fun climb on sharp limestone. Lots of positive holds, including the edges of a couple of flakes. The rock is rough enough and the climb low-angled enough you could probably smear all the way up if you wanted to.

Location

At the left side of this crag is a big, obvious roof (the left of the two big roofs) with a gentle ramp rising right-to-left under it. At the end of the ramp is an obvious small rock tower below a rounded ridge which forms the left edge of the main face of the Black and Tan crag.

Just right of that small tower is a sheltered, flat platform above which is a notch with a bolt in it, leading to more bolts above. This is the start of the route Redolence.

Glutton for Punishment is on the left side of the small rock tower. It's easy to get around the tower by dropping down from the platform and following ledges around to its left side, then up to a wide gentle area below a moderate slab rising to the left of the rounded ridge.

Glutton starts from bottom center of slab with two tan-painted bolts above, leading to a gentle diagonal right-to-left ramp about 25-30 feet up.

The rounded ridge has two obvious left-facing inside corners (Redolence goes up roughly in between those two corners). After its second bolt, Glutton crosses right across the ramp (while another bolt line continues more left), then goes up roughly along the left one of those two corners (which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the ridge -- then finishes right to a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (shared with Redolence) at the top of the ridge.

Protection

8 bolts to Metolius rap anchors (with a quicklink on the left anchor). The rock is rough, there are some sharp edges, and the climb is low-angled so we belayed from the top and then the belayer rappelled rather than lowered to save wear and tear (and worry).

Photos

kenr  
Location: At the left side of this crag is an obvious big roof (the left one of the two big roofs), with a gentle ramp rising right-to-left under it. At the end of the ramp is an obvious small rock tower below a rounded ridge which forms the left edge of the main face of the Black & Tan crag. Just right of that tower is a sheltered flat platform with a notch above with a bolt in it, leading to more bolts above. That is the start of the route Redolence - (not Glutton).

Glutton for Punishment is on the left side of the small rock tower. Easy to get around the tower by dropping down from the platform and following ledges around to its left side, then up to a wide gentle area below a moderate slab rising to the left of the rounded ridge.

Glutton starts from bottom center of slab, with tan-painted two bolts above, leading to a gentle diagonal right-to-left ramp about 25-30 feet up.
The rounded ridge has two obvious left-facing inside corners - (the route Redolence goes up roughly in between those two corners). After its second bolt, Glutton crosses right across the ramp (while another bolt line continues more left), then goes up roughly along the left one of those two corners (which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the ridge -- then finishes right to a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (shared with Redolence) at the top of the ridge.

. . (note that the map in the Goss 2015 guidebook does not agree with this description -- but the photos in the Goss 2105 and in Limestone Bible 2015 guidebooks do agree). Nov 9, 2017
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
How traumatic. Apr 9, 2013
JeanieB Budge
Provo, UT
JeanieB Budge   Provo, UT
This route shares anchors with the route to the right, Redolence. Learned this the hard way when there was someone already leading on that route when I started up. Apr 9, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.8-
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.8-
Fun warm-up to the Woodsbury area. Great slab at the beginning, and than a fun flake at the upper half that you can fun on. This route and area is in the sun in the morning. Oct 9, 2012
Wyatt H  
Couldn't tell where the route went based on the guidebook. Too many bolts going everywhere from newer routes put up. Use the photo here instead. Apr 12, 2011