Glutton for Punishment
Avg: 2.4 from 26 votes
Routes in Black and Tan
|Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b|
|Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||T. Goss, J. Howard|
|Page Views:||2,486 total, 19/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Mar 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details
DescriptionA long, low-angled, fun climb on sharp limestone. Lots of positive holds, including the edges of a couple of flakes. The rock is rough enough and the climb low-angled enough you could probably smear all the way up if you wanted to.
LocationAt the left side of this crag is a big, obvious roof (the left of the two big roofs) with a gentle ramp rising right-to-left under it. At the end of the ramp is an obvious small rock tower below a rounded ridge which forms the left edge of the main face of the Black and Tan crag.
Just right of that small tower is a sheltered, flat platform above which is a notch with a bolt in it, leading to more bolts above. This is the start of the route Redolence.
Glutton for Punishment is on the left side of the small rock tower. It's easy to get around the tower by dropping down from the platform and following ledges around to its left side, then up to a wide gentle area below a moderate slab rising to the left of the rounded ridge.
Glutton starts from bottom center of slab with two tan-painted bolts above, leading to a gentle diagonal right-to-left ramp about 25-30 feet up.
The rounded ridge has two obvious left-facing inside corners (Redolence goes up roughly in between those two corners). After its second bolt, Glutton crosses right across the ramp (while another bolt line continues more left), then goes up roughly along the left one of those two corners (which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the ridge -- then finishes right to a 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (shared with Redolence) at the top of the ridge.