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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Prep: Tim Wagner & Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 1,153 total · 22/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

This quintessential Power Endurance line features two back-to-back cruxes low to the ground. The business boils down to crimping through 10-or-so consecutive moves, some of which are quite powerful. The rock is flawless and not as sharp as one might expect. This line was originally conceived and prepped by the visionaries Tim Wagner and Jeff Pedersen. In 2001, the FA was nabbed without regard to Pedersen's redtag.

A few long but easy reaches leads to a traverse under the roof. The first crux is a burly lunge to reach good edges at the lip of the roof. Apparently taller climbers can get a big stem/dropknee here, taking the sting out of the first crux (hence the inevitable internet-hand-wringing over the grade). After a tenuous clip, make a desparate pull onto the headwall utilizing nasty crimps. The headwall is mostly trivial, featuring numerous great rests, and relatively big holds, but there is one dicey slab move that will certainly get your attention.

Location

On the left end of the upper Black & Tan cave, there is a steep dihedral heading out the roof. Breakin the Law climbes directly to the point where this dihedral meets the lip of the roof. It is also the third bolted line from the left that climbs out the roof of the cave.

Protection

About 10 bolts to Springer Cold Shuts. Those dynoing to the lip of the roof will probably want a single biner on the fourth bolt to prevent forking the quickdraw.

Photos

Eli
GMC3500
Eli   GMC3500
I think Dave Graham got the FA of this one. Feb 23, 2017

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