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Routes in Black and Tan
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[Redacted] S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Block Party S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blockheads S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Criminal Mischief S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Da Riddler S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dickheads S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dissonance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dull Boy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dull Boy direct exit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gym climbers crack. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Learning Curve S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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No Random Guy Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Old World Lullaby S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pockets Full O' Chicken Wings S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poke in the Eye S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resolve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reward Schedule S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhythm Stick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Slabstick S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slabstick to Unknown linkup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Talking Smack S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tickman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Prep: Tim Wagner & Jeff Pedersen |
| Page Views: | 3,026 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Description
This quintessential Power Endurance line features two back-to-back cruxes low to the ground. The business boils down to crimping through 10-or-so consecutive moves, some of which are quite powerful. The rock is flawless and not as sharp as one might expect. This line was originally conceived and prepped by the visionaries Tim Wagner and Jeff Pedersen. In 2001, the FA was nabbed without regard to Pedersen's redtag.
A few long but easy reaches leads to a traverse under the roof. The first crux is a burly lunge to reach good edges at the lip of the roof. Apparently taller climbers can get a big stem/dropknee here, taking the sting out of the first crux (hence the inevitable internet-hand-wringing over the grade). After a tenuous clip, make a desparate pull onto the headwall utilizing nasty crimps. The headwall is mostly trivial, featuring numerous great rests, and relatively big holds, but there is one dicey slab move that will certainly get your attention.
A few long but easy reaches leads to a traverse under the roof. The first crux is a burly lunge to reach good edges at the lip of the roof. Apparently taller climbers can get a big stem/dropknee here, taking the sting out of the first crux (hence the inevitable internet-hand-wringing over the grade). After a tenuous clip, make a desparate pull onto the headwall utilizing nasty crimps. The headwall is mostly trivial, featuring numerous great rests, and relatively big holds, but there is one dicey slab move that will certainly get your attention.
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