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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 531 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kenny Clark on May 23, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

This route starts off with some thin moves on the slab. After the first bolt of Redolence move to the right and follow the line of bolts that continue up and to the right. Holds are thin and require some thought up until the 4th bolt or so, after which the climb changes personality. More features are available in the little runnels that have formed. The difficulty eases, and the bolts get farther and farther apart up to the ring anchors.

When lowering off this route you will end up 30 feet or more to the right of your belayer. Have a second clean the climb. Don't try to clean this while lowering, or on rappel. You will get some nasty scratches on the sharp rock when you swing.

Location

On the left side of the caves at Black and Tan. Shares the first bolt of Redolence then skirts off to the right.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts to rings (assuming I recall correctly).

Photos

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Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.5 PG13
This route is listed as 5.6 in Todd Goss 2015 guidebook. It felt more like 5.4. The rock is super sharp and a fall would be a horrible disaster, hence PG13. I got cuts and blood stains from simply touching the rock with knees and elbows. Similar comment goes for the adjacent Redolence. Jun 21, 2016