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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: C. Ence, T. Goss
Page Views: 135 total, 14/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Feb 23, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Climb Crime and Punishment and after 5 bolts cut right. Criminal Mischief continues for 5 more bolts to an anchor at the top of the cliff.

Location

Shares the first 5 bolts of Crime and Punishment and then cuts right.

Protection

Bolts. Sport route.

Photos

kenr  
Variation 1: In the middle, above the gentle right-to-left ramp, instead of closely following the bolt line for Crime and Punishment, climb directly up the less-featured slab between "Crime" and the obvious left-facing corner of the route "Glutton for Punishment".
. . (perhaps better done on Top-Rope after first leading the route).
. . (Fits better with the overall difficulty of the route, but I guess bolting it would be a "squeeze").

Variation 2: Above the top of the slab, aim for 8-10 feet left of the top anchor, then traverse right to anchor.
. . (better done on Top-Rope after first leading the route -- just a way to milk some additional climbing from it).
. . (perhaps not as difficult or as interesting as the main route). Nov 9, 2017