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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: T. Goss, J. Howard
Page Views: 1,452 total · 11/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Easy slab route that keeps your attention due to the disastrous consequences of a fall-think motorcycle road rash, then add cayenne pepper. VERY grippy rock, fun moves, most of the holds on this were *heavily* "comfortized", but I wouldn't go so far as to call it chipped. A decent route and a nice option when the moderates at Kelly's Rock are in the sun.

Location

Starts at the very left end of the leftmost cave at Black and Tan. Climbs out of an alcove up a slab.

Protection

Can't get off this one with a 50 meter-bring a 60 meter rope or longer to lower-my ends weren't touching the ground with a 60.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
There's a route directly to the right of this that I accidentally traversed over to (not in guide book). Stay off of this, as the bolts get very sparse.

This route was fun. I ended up using more draws than what the book said, but that's probably due to me getting off route. Very hot in the morning even in October. Oct 9, 2012
JeanieB Budge
Provo, UT
JeanieB Budge   Provo, UT
Shares anchors with Glutton for Punishment which is directly to the left of Redolence so it can't be climbed if someone is on that route. Apr 9, 2013
kenr  
Location: Glutton for Punishment starts about 35-45 feet left of Redolence, on the other side of the obvious small rock tower under the rounded ridge which forms the left end of the main wall of the Black & Tan crag. Redolence starts on a sheltered platform under the right side of the little tower (at the left end of the big roof).

There are two obvious left-facing inside corners on the rounded ridge. Glutton for Punishment angles right across the gentle ramp about 25-30 feet up the slab to reach the left one of those corners, then up that. The bolt line for Redolence goes roughly up between the two corners - (and there's another route to a lower anchor along the right side of the right corner).

Main advantage of "warming up" on Redolence: The rock is so sharp that the holds on any other route on Black & Tan seem almost reasonable. Nov 9, 2017

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