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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: T. Goss, J, Howard
Page Views: 1,497 total · 15/month
Shared By: stefan24 on Feb 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Fun route that has good variety of angles from slabbing to slightly overhanging to bulging. Awesome holds.

Location

Start the same as Glutton for Punishment: around the bottom center of the wide slab to the left of the obvious small rock tower with a rounded ridge above it.

After the second bolt you'll reach a gentle ramp. Where Glutton goes right to the left-facing, inside corner which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the rounded ridge, instead go left.

After three more bolts the route Criminal Mischief trends right up the slab to its own anchor above. Crime and Punishment bears left up over steep bulge, then more gently up and left to the anchor.

Protection

9 bolts, maybe more

Photos

Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.10a
Nathan Marsh   st. george utah
  5.10a
like others have said, a lot of new bolts/lines over here which makes the guide book confusing. Make sure you count bolts and make sure you are turning up the right route or you could end up on a 5.12 instead of a 10a. Mar 12, 2012
boltclippinfool
  5.9+
boltclippinfool  
  5.9+
Fun climb, clip the 2nd bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head left through a bulge with some cool pockets.

There's also another line of bolts between Crime and Punishment and Glutton for Punishment - Clip the 6th bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head up the blocky face to the left. I seem to remember 5 bolts to rap rings, 5.10-. Def. worth doing. May 15, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.9
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.9
I don't agree with boltclippinfool on how this route runs. I do, however, agree with most of the rest of what he says. Here's my route description.

Start on Glutton for Punishment for the first two bolts. Runout the rest of the even easier slab (5.3) to the bolt line on the left. Follow this straight up through a bulge and great pockets to a crimpy and balancey crux at the anchor where the weight of the rope makes the moves feel more difficult than they are. 5.9 tops and something like 8 bolts to rap rings. Mar 3, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
the two or three bolt variation left at the top makes which bolts to clip confusing! Heading to the right anchors seemed better. May 22, 2015
Laura Bauer
  5.10a
Laura Bauer  
  5.10a
Really fun. I had to split left once, but I didn't notice a second divergence. It was really straight forward - just follow the bolts. Oct 25, 2016
kenr  
Variation: Start instead up the dark-painted bolt line 10-15 feet left of the Glutton for Punishment / Crime and Punishment tan-painted bolt line. Continue following this bolt line across the gentle ramp and above until the orange face gets steeper with lack of positive holds. Then leave that bolt line and diagonal right with big pockets to join the main tan-painted bolt line for Crime and Punishment. (not more difficult, perhaps a bit more fun). Nov 9, 2017

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