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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: T. Goss, F. Anotgnini
Page Views: 379 total, 8/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Mar 2, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

This route starts to the left of Crime and Punishment, following a couple of bolts through the same initial slab.

The slab start is maybe around 5.9 and very sharp and precise. At the third bolt you'll be mostly standing up straight and by the 4th you'll be slightly hanging from your arms. Clip the 5th bolt and rest at the massive jugs between the 4th and 5th bolt. The crux is well protected by that 5th bolt and the 6th bolt has a great clipping hold. The climbing eases up to the anchor.

Location

Starts on the same slab as and climbs to the left of Crime and Punishment.

Protection

6 bolts to hook anchors

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.11b
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.11b
This is in the latest Goss guide at .11b (so I gave it the correct name and changed the entry's rating from 12-). I did it and .11b seems about right.

Also, the line to the left (House of Cards, .12a) doesn't share the start. Oct 24, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
If this is the one I did, I say its more like 11-. there is a line to the left of it that shares the start and is supposed 12a. May 22, 2015