Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Black and Tan is composed of solid, rough, sharp limestone with black and tan stripes (surprise). If you fell on a lower-angled section you would either stick like velcro or be shredded (I recall someone describing it as climbing on tiny fishhooks).

The crag faces roughly east.

There are over 30 bolted routes here (32 named routes plus several projects in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, 2nd Ed., plus at least one additional project and at least one other completed route not in the guidebook).

The routes are a good mix from 5.7 to 5.14 with the largest number in the 5.11 range.

Getting There

From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking (and the crag) is on the right.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black and Tan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
Glutton for Punishment
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Beauty Pageant
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 41
Crime and Punishment
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Resolve
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Criminal Mischief
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Unknown New Route
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Shades of Grey
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Random Penis Rubbings
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 16
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Dull Boy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Jumanji
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 22
Da Riddler
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Minus Five
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Smoking Drum
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glutton for Punishment
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Beauty Pageant
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crime and Punishment
 41
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Resolve
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Criminal Mischief
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Unknown New Route
 7
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shades of Grey
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Random Penis Rubbings
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mech…
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dull Boy
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Jumanji
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Da Riddler
 22
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Minus Five
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Smoking Drum
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black and Tan »

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Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Unfortunately I didn't spend much time climbing here. I was with my family, and the wife and one child were feeling kinda sick. In fact, we only got on one 5.7 (Glutton for Punishment). I wanted to do one more, but the sharp rock really spooked my kids. Here is the conversation between the 43-year-old father and his 17-year-old daughter as we pulled the rope:

Father: Gwen, wanna belay me on that 10a next to us?
Daughter: Uhhh...
Father: C'mon, it looks like a lot of fun.
Daughter: I don't know Dad, if you fall you'll get shredded...
Father: Oh, it's not so bad. Besides, I won't fall on a 10a.
Daughter: Dad...
Father (increasingly plaintive): C'mon Gwen, we drove all this way...
Daughter (refusing to feel guilty): No.

Hopefully I'll do more on a subsequent trip. Mar 11, 2007
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
in about 20 years that one may come back to haunt ya gwen! LOL...

great post, great info: thanks Mar 3, 2010
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
This page would be a lot better if somebody added some more beta pictures to define where the bolt lines run. The guidebook is pretty out-of-date and incorrect, especially with the left side of the crag. Mar 3, 2014
Courtney Getman
Salt Lake City, UT
Courtney Getman   Salt Lake City, UT
Found something at this crag on 3/12. Let me know if you lost something here! Mar 13, 2016