Elevation: 3,700 ft
GPS: 37.018, -113.852 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,937 total · 280/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 11, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Black and Tan is composed of solid, rough, sharp limestone with black and tan stripes (surprise). If you fell on a lower-angled section you would either stick like velcro or be shredded (I recall someone describing it as climbing on tiny fishhooks).

The crag faces roughly east.

There are over 30 bolted routes here (32 named routes plus several projects in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, 2nd Ed., plus at least one additional project and at least one other completed route not in the guidebook).

The routes are a good mix from 5.7 to 5.14 with the largest number in the 5.11 range.

Getting There

From the Woodbury Road turnoff drive 3.7 miles (3.2 according to Goss). Shortly after crossing the fourth cattle guard the parking (and the crag) is on the right.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black and Tan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 48
Glutton for Punishment
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Beauty Pageant
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 63
Crime and Punishment
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Resolve
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 21
Criminal Mischief
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Pockets Full O' Chicken Wings
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Magic Carpet Ride
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Shades of Grey
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 41
No Random Guy Penis
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 34
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Jumanji
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 36
Da Riddler
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 20
Minus Five
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 9
Smoking Drum
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 3
Talking Smack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Glutton for Punishment
 48
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Beauty Pageant
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crime and Punishment
 63
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Resolve
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Criminal Mischief
 21
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Pockets Full O' Chicken Wings
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Magic Carpet Ride
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shades of Grey
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
No Random Guy Penis
 41
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mech…
 34
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jumanji
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Da Riddler
 36
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Minus Five
 20
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Smoking Drum
 9
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Talking Smack
 3
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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