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Routes in Black and Tan

Beauty Pageant S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bed Head S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Block Party S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakin' the Law S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Crime and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Criminal Mischief S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Da Riddler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dissonance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drunken Speed Fisherman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dull Boy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glutton for Punishment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House of Cards S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Idiosyncratic Feedback Mechanism S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jumanji S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learning Curve S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Minus Five S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pangs of Ignorance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Random Penis Rubbings S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redolence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resolve S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shades of Grey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shades of Grey - Left S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smoking Drum S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown New Route S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tim Wagner and Boone Speed
Page Views: 259 total, 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

It completely amazes me that the legendary Boone Speed took the time to establish this forgetable line. My theory is that he needed something warm for a belay slave to climb while he worked some burly project in the adjacent caves. This route, and the two lines to it's left (that make up "The Annex") have but one thing going for them: they remain in the sun for a few hours after the rest of crag is in the shade.

Begin above jumbled boulders, and do the crux to gain the route. If you're able to pull off the ground, the rest of the route will be trivial. Wander past bushes and choss for a while to reach a poor anchor.

Location

On the far left end of the Black and Tan massif (only a few feet above the wash that runs between the cliff and the road) is a small alcove of mungy rock. This is the right-most, and longest, of three routes in this alcove.

Protection

Around 5 bolts to a poor 2-bolt anchor. Bring some quicklinks if you do this to fix the anchor.

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