Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tim Wagner and Boone Speed
Page Views: 302 total · 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 3, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

It completely amazes me that the legendary Boone Speed took the time to establish this forgetable line. My theory is that he needed something warm for a belay slave to climb while he worked some burly project in the adjacent caves. This route, and the two lines to it's left (that make up "The Annex") have but one thing going for them: they remain in the sun for a few hours after the rest of crag is in the shade.

Begin above jumbled boulders, and do the crux to gain the route. If you're able to pull off the ground, the rest of the route will be trivial. Wander past bushes and choss for a while to reach a poor anchor.

Location

On the far left end of the Black and Tan massif (only a few feet above the wash that runs between the cliff and the road) is a small alcove of mungy rock. This is the right-most, and longest, of three routes in this alcove.

Protection

Around 5 bolts to a poor 2-bolt anchor. Bring some quicklinks if you do this to fix the anchor.

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