Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Oldrid
Page Views: 2,034 total · 14/month
Shared By: richard magill on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Another classic 11b up an intimidating overhanging scoop. This route starts with some thin slabbing up the scoop, and then a series of utterly perfect holds lead up through the overhang. Super fun, excellent stone, great line!

Location

Pretty easy to spot- start at the big boulder on the left side of the crag. K-8 leaves from the top of the boulder. The next 2 lines left of there are 5.12. The next line left of them is K-6, and is obvious as it pulls through the left side of a big overhanging scoop.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors

Photos

Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.11b
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.11b
A great climb! The route begins with a sort of technical slab, leading into the scoop. You can rest here forever if you'd like. Clip up to the 3rd bolt, and push through the crux, which was for me through the 4th clip. Some holds past the 4th bolt may be a little hidden, but they are there. Watch your feet. Great movement. Plenty of good holds, with tons of great feet. The rock didn't feel as sharp here as Black and Tan. Apr 3, 2011