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Routes in Kelly's Rock

Another Day at the Office S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Awakening, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Czech Frogs Say Qua S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Demagogue S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gnashing of Teeth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harsh Rhetoric S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heeler, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hookup, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hubris S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
K-1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
K-3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
K-4 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
K-6 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-7 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
K-8 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
K-9 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Kitty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mayhem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rending of Garments S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tag Team S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Topless Vegetables S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.6 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wet My Whistle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zealot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Oldrid
Page Views: 1,765 total, 14/month
Shared By: richard magill on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Another classic 11b up an intimidating overhanging scoop. This route starts with some thin slabbing up the scoop, and then a series of utterly perfect holds lead up through the overhang. Super fun, excellent stone, great line!

Location

Pretty easy to spot- start at the big boulder on the left side of the crag. K-8 leaves from the top of the boulder. The next 2 lines left of there are 5.12. The next line left of them is K-6, and is obvious as it pulls through the left side of a big overhanging scoop.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors

Photos

Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.11b
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.11b
A great climb! The route begins with a sort of technical slab, leading into the scoop. You can rest here forever if you'd like. Clip up to the 3rd bolt, and push through the crux, which was for me through the 4th clip. Some holds past the 4th bolt may be a little hidden, but they are there. Watch your feet. Great movement. Plenty of good holds, with tons of great feet. The rock didn't feel as sharp here as Black and Tan. Apr 3, 2011