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Routes in The Solstice

A Fall From Grace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Kings Horses S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
April Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Breakfast of the Damned S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Catch 22 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chertin for Certain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Passion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Curmudgeons S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve’'s Testicle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fornification of Kings, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Least I Could Do, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Quaker Oats S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Torsades de Pointes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tricksy Hobbits S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vampires S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 3,780 ft
GPS: 37.029, -113.864 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,373 total, 59/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

South-facing, The Solstice is a great winter sport crag, particularly for moderate routes. The majority of the routes here are in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, with a handful of .11s and one specimen each of 5.6 and 5.7.

The rock is limestone (Kaibab, according to Goss) with amazing texture due to exposed chert knobs and edges in a wild variety of sizes and shapes. There is also an abundance of single-finger pockets, with the occasional larger pocket appearing here and there.

The whole crag starts out lower-angled and gently curves upward, getting steeper as it goes. There is a gentle bulge in the middle section, through which the harder routes travel. The raspy texture makes the lower-angled sections a bit nerve-wracking, but the routes are closely bolted, enabling you to keep at bay the fears of a geological flaying.
In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Getting There

From the Woodbury Road ?turn off? travel 2.8 miles to a dirt road on the left (2.9 miles, according to Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition). Goss describes crossing two cattle guards; there are actually three—the guidebook apparently doesn't count the guard immediately off the highway. In any event, after crossing the third cattle guard, take the third dirt road on the left.

With 4WD, or a high-clearance 2WD, travel a quarter-mile or so to an obvious parking area near a wildlife cistern (You could drive another two hundred yards with an appropriate vehicle). In a standard passenger vehicle, you'll probably want to walk over the rough section.

From the parking area, follow the road uphill towards the crag. When the road ends, continue on the faint trail until a low cairn marks the start of a switchbacking trail, marked occasionally with cairns, that leads to the base of the wall.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Solstice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Was looking forward to climbing at the Black and Tan Wall but due to wind and cold ended up at the Solstice Wall . After 20 years of climbing i can say if that was what climbing was about , i would never climb again . What awful rock ! Every route we got on easiet to hardest bits were popping off and it seemed all the route endings were forced which indeed they were! One set of anchors for 3 routes ! We thought this wall was sad and awful . On the only positive note , it was warm and sunny . Mar 24, 2017
Matt Berrett   utah
While the rock looks chossy from a distance, I found it to be relatively solid, maybe it has cleaned up with traffic? I ticked off all the 10's along with some 11's and enjoyed every one!!! It was windy and cold at Kelly's wall, while up and the solstice I was climbing in a t shirt. The most fun I have had on limestone in a long time. Mar 13, 2014
Holy Chert! What a cool little cold weather climbing zone! Thought provoking climbing on featured (sometimes sharp) stone. Seems solid enough to me, nothing broke on us while we were here. I will say though, it takes a route or two to get used to the rock. Dec 8, 2012
A nice assortment of mostly thin and technical slab/vertical climbing...with several routes in the 100ft+ range. Indeed the rockquality isn't like Kelly's or some of the other better crags in the area...but this is a good visit for the 5.10-11 climber after sending the stuff below...or for anyone looking for tons of mileage! Mar 5, 2010
definitely confused. this place blows. but the soul asylum is pretty dang fun. Nov 20, 2009
grk10vq    
uh.. Ten, there are no 12s at the Solstice.

For the record, this place is, in fact, a flaming pile of fragile, sharp choss nuggets.
I'll add some more routes here soon, who knows? maybe people will get psyched? Nov 19, 2009
I'd have to agree with Perin. It was all tight pockets and edges for me. Did you do the .12 in the middle of the steepness? The one with the cool fist jam in the Hueco? Part of the top of that was the only loose stuff I saw on the wall. It seemed like that part of the wall had seen a lot more water in general and maybe that's why? who knows? I still think its a cool crag and a lot of fun for groups with a wide variety of ability. Nov 19, 2009
rick gardiner
Grand Junction, CO,
rick gardiner   Grand Junction, CO,
I wouldn't agree with those statements. I did several of the routes ropesolo at The Solstice Wall in february 08 and thought they were fun! I don't remember any loose stuff. And I had the place all to myself. Nov 17, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
"100ft of choss"—You say that like it's a bad thing :-)

You must have gotten on different routes than I did. I knocked off one small rock the whole time, and that was while being lowered. Mar 2, 2009
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
Unless no where else or to cold to climb i would avoid this area at all costs. The rock is soooooooooooo loose and the routes are so long. 100ft of choss. If for some reason you do venture to this area wear a helmet and stand as far away from under the climber as you can. Mar 1, 2009

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