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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Description

This is a great wall with a lot of multi-pitch moderates. The rock is sandstone with varnish edges. The wall gets winter sun in the afternoon and shade in the morning. You can descend most routes with a single 60M. There are a few good trad/mixed routes, so don't leave your gear at home. The majority of the routes are 5.10 and are up to 250ft long.

Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Getting There

Drive north out of St George on Rt 18. (Bluff St) Turn left on a gravel road at mile post 18. Drive 2 miles and turn left onto a dirt road below the cliff.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Prophesy Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breaking the Sabbath
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Wate…
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Soffit of Jericho
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ship of Fools
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Past Lives
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harsh Reality
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sticky Revelations
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prescience
Sport 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Caging the Zealot
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Visionaries
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Roofs of Jericho
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Equanimity
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harbingers
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gordian Knot
Sport 4 pitches
Breaking the Sabbath 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Whatever Happens...Happens… 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
The Soffit of Jericho 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ship of Fools 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Past Lives 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Harsh Reality 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches
Sticky Revelations 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Conditional Bliss 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Prescience 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Caging the Zealot 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
The Visionaries 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Roofs of Jericho 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Equanimity 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Harbingers 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Gordian Knot 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Prophesy Wall »

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Ryan202
West Jordan, UT
Ryan202   West Jordan, UT
"Day use only - no camping" signs go all the way to Lower Sand Cove Reservoir. We didn't go past that; we drove out and went somewhere else to camp.

We did see a headlamp down in one of the day use only areas; pretty sure someone just ignoring the signs.

This has indeed restricted a large area available for camping, so please, don't trash any camping areas. Oct 15, 2017
The Prophesy wall is BLM property, but the access to it from the gravel road to the slope below the cliff has always been owned by a utility company (Pacific Corp)
Climbers have camped on this private property for years when visiting the area without realizing that they were not on public land. The resulting fire pits, tree limb cutting, and shit cairns were in addition to impacts generated by local fishermen, target shooters, scout groups, and a vagabond in a camper who lived there for nearly 6 months.
2 weeks ago the landowner posted "Day use only"- "No Camping" signs at every conceivable entrance off the gravel road (it is impossible not to see these signs) Climbers have ignored the signs and are continuing to camp because "well other people are camping here" or because " Dude I have been camping here for years". The next set of signs will simply say "No Trespassing" and now we cant even access the awesome climbing that this area offers.

Please do not camp here.

Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you wont be the guy to get the crag closed to climbing.

Please pass the word to other groups coming to this area.
thanks
Todd Goss
Southern Utah Climbers Coalition Oct 3, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
What? Who is 'they'? Anyone know the land ownership around there? Camped there many times and always loved it. Does anyone have contact info for theSouthern Utah Climbers' Alliance. It appears they no longer have a website. Sep 8, 2017
Jeremy Almond
Las Vegas
Jeremy Almond   Las Vegas
ALERT! NO CAMPING!

They recently put up a lot of signs that say "day use only 6-9. No camping."

I drove up from Vegas with my camper, planning to stay there and could not. Sep 6, 2017
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
According to the guide book it is Prophesy Wall. I think a lot of people (including myself) tend to mispronounce the name (check this out). Sep 18, 2015
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
So is this wall called Prophecy or Prophesy? Every person I've ever talked to has called it Prophecy, but here on MP it's listed as Prophesy. Type-o? Sep 17, 2015
Ira O
Hardwick, VT
Ira O   Hardwick, VT
I think that this is a great place to climb. I agree that some climbs could have less bolts, but I prefer, i think, to either have a route be all trad or all sport, just to avoid carrying everything but the kitchen sink up the wall. My GF and I camped a couple hundred yards from the parking lot at a site in the trees and were not bothered by anything but snow on our third night there. The place was clean, and we had it all to ourselves for 2 beautiful days of climbing. The bolts are well placed for stress-free leads. The belay sites for 2nd and 3rd pitches were spacious and comfy. I have nothing bad to say about this place! One thing, not really bad, is that I thought a lot of the routes were easier than they were rated, (particularly the older ones), some by a letter grade, but there were a couple 10s that I'd say were 8+ or 9. Anyway, thanks to all the locals who made it such a sweet place and I hope to come again sometime! Mar 3, 2015
The campsites near the prophecy wall were not too trashed a few days ago. We bagged out a bunch of cigarette butts and broken glass today tho. I know climbers are better than to leave trash in the campsites or crags, but it would help a lot if we each bagged some trash out when we come. Lets keep this awesome crag in great shape! May 2, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
FYI - Red Dog Cafe was closed and up for sale when I drove by it February 2013. Not sure what the details are or what happened. Mar 22, 2013
We've done a few of the routes on this cliff with all or mostly natural pro, only clipping the occasional bolt, safely, climbing past bolt after bolt next to perfectly bomber gear placements... Sad. Apr 28, 2010
To end on a more positive note, we liked Red Dog Cafe too. Apr 27, 2010
There appear to be four bolted variations now to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations -- bright shiny metal everywhere you look, some just an arm's span apart. What a mess!

There's quite a spray of bolts along and below the traverse ledge near Secrets of Fatima, too. Secrets of Fatima is a proud line well separate from its neighbors, but is gym-ification the sad future of this cliff? Apr 27, 2010

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