Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: I. Horn, T. Goss
Page Views: 4,980 total, 35/month
Shared By: chris cook on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


68 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

For exact approach look in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah by T. Goss. Start is behind a bush, just right of a dihedral. 5.9 climbing up varnished edges to crux over the first roof.

Excellent belay station for second pitch, however significant rope drag over the first roof for the second ascender. Second pitch is a little more crimpy with a tougher second roof crux. Two rappels down with single rope or walk off if you want a long hike down.

Protection

quickdraws...13 should do.

Photos

Julius Grisette
Carbondale
 
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
 
stellar route Mar 21, 2017
Ross Thompson
SLC, UT
Ross Thompson   SLC, UT
Friend and I strongly disliked this route. Pretty much 5.8+/9- climbing up to the roof, which is a one move wonder at 10C. Rope drag was completely heinous, strong recommend alpine draws below/above the roof. Did not continue to P2. Mar 7, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.11a
I agree with Brucy. For me, First roof is much harder than the second and harder than Equanimity. Also, if you are worried about decking on the second roof you can place finger size pro above the bolt. Nov 24, 2015
brucy
5.11a
brucy  
5.11a
We thought the moves on the roof to be more like 11a not 10c in keeping with the ratings on the rest of the wall. Apr 9, 2015
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
@ Stan Pitcher & Dr. Dan - Unfortunately, I do know the vandals and am glad to report - they don't climb any more....More unfortunate, I found the missing holds while free soloing the route!! Made for an exciting day to say the least. Jul 2, 2012
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
 
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
 
Led this route 2005, 2007, 2009 and today, 4/23/2012. There are definitely a few holds missing on roof1 making it more sequnce dependent, but I still think 10c is still accurate. I also led the single pitch immediately to left of P1 and thought that pitch was 10d. Apr 23, 2012
what is the crack to the left of this route named.
After climbing it it feel like 5.9. standard rack to 4in doubles for medium-size cams would be helpful Aug 19, 2011
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.11a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.11a
Thanks for the history - good to know I've not completely lost my mind? Hadn't been there in years and just climbed it last weekend. Volunteered for the 'crux' pitch because I thought I remembered the first roof being much easier. Instead it was much harder - 10d or maybe a bit harder?

Any contact info for the handle vandals? :) Hope they learned something that day!

Also there is a very nice single pitch line (10ish) to the left of the first pitch. Can't miss the shiny hangers - wish they'd paint those! Nov 10, 2009
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
I love this route - a little history to help w/ the route description though...when the route was originally bolted the first pitch was the easiest, including the roof, however around 2005 some climbers jumped on it after recent moisture had come through the area and key jugs were broken off of that roof. This significantly changed the route and made the first roof harder than the second. These changes make the climber go through the fist roof using specific holds with a sequence that isn't the most natural. Back in the day though the jugs were nice and you could easily match - taking away any need to lead into that section w a specific sequence (if I remember correctly you lead into it with your Left hand reaching high from those super nice under clings) with the route trending to the right away from you and then back left once you get up over the roof. Aug 14, 2009
zoso
 
zoso  
 
2nd roof harder??? Say what? Crux is 1st roof. Der. I'm right. You're wrong. he he he Dec 23, 2008
Dan Lay
  5.10d
Dan Lay  
  5.10d
Awesome route. Easy climbing first pitch. 1st roof I would rate a 10c, but second roof looks like a 10d or possible 11a. Nov 30, 2008
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.10c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.10c
this is a stellar route. very easy climbing with 2 roof cruxes. the first roof wigged me out because it isnt part of the wall itself. its suspended. i kept imagining it falling apart on us. Nov 19, 2007