Avg: 3.1 from 165 votes
|Type:||Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||33,049 total · 155/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Oct 13, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").
The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.
Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.
Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)
Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).
The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.
Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.
At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.
Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.
Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.
- - > See line R in this Photo or this Photo.
The two lead glue-in bolts and the glue-in bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. The two intermediate-lead glue-ins are 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. The anchor glue-in bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.
The other bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt about 4 inch long / 0.5 inch diameter, bolt + hanger 304 Stainless steel. Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.
The other intermediate-lead bolts (with hangers) and the other anchors at tops of the pitches are of unknown composition and age.