Type: Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches
FA: Goss, Horn
Page Views: 33,049 total · 155/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 13, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

This route is located on the far right side of Prophesy Wall.
The first pitch is on good varnished edges (5.7, about 75ft). About 3/4 of the way up it reaches a ledge under a small roof, and passes around the left side of the roof. It finishes up to an obvious ledge with a bolts+chains+rings anchor (which is just left of the bolts+chains+rings anchor for the route "False Prophets").

The second pitch is also on good varnished edges (5.8, about 75ft). About 2/3 of the way up the original route goes sharp diagonal left following bolts-with-hangers to reach the two-bolts-with-chains anchor (for the trad route "Book of Prophesy") above the big right-facing inside corner.
Variation 2.1 -- There is a variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun.
Variation 2.2 -- Where the original route turns diagonal left, instead continue straight up past two glue-in bolts to two-bolts-with-chains anchor just below big detached rock face - (convenient if stopping after Pitch 2)

Variation 2.3 -- At the first bolt after turning sharp left for the final traverse, instead of continuing left, head straight up to a high two-bolt anchor (for Persecuted for Righteousness) just left of big detached rock face - (convenient for next doing the main 5.10 version of Pitch 3).

The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).
There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. It angles to the left to another set of anchors.

Descent: Three rappels with a single rope.

Location
At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar.
Start on that rock platform about ten feet right from the right side of the pillar, below a bolt.
Start is shared with the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Above the first bolt (where "Breaking" goes left), this route continues roughly straight up.

- - > See line R in this Photo or this Photo.

Protection

Draws, optional trad gear for Variation 2.1 hand crack on pitch 2.

The two lead glue-in bolts and the glue-in bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 are 316 Stainless steel 6mm twisted wire glue-ins by Bolt Products of Germany, through USA distributor Team-Tough.com. The two intermediate-lead glue-ins are 100mm / 3.9 inch deep. The anchor glue-in bolt is 150mm / 5.9 inch deep. Adhesive is Dewalt Powers AC100+ Gold in holes 0.5 inch diameter.
The other bolt in the anchor at top of Variation 2.2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt about 4 inch long / 0.5 inch diameter, bolt + hanger 304 Stainless steel. Chains and quick-links are Plated steel. All installed 2019.

The other intermediate-lead bolts (with hangers) and the other anchors at tops of the pitches are of unknown composition and age.

Photos