Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Goss, Horn
Page Views: 7,653 total, 45/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 13, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


109 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

This route is located on the far right side of Phophesy Wall. The first two pitch are 75ft long and are on good varnished edges (5.7, 5.8). There is a 2nd pitch variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun. The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).

There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb. I did not climb this 3rd pitch , but it angles to the left to another set of anchors. Rap 3 times with a single rope to get down.

Protection

Draws, optional trad gear for hand crack on P2
kenr  
The corner / crack to the left side of P2 (on Top-Rope) offers another line of (arguably more interesting) climbing. But for me it was a bit disappointing because it had hardly any hand-jamming moves. The crack crux in the lower part was mostly laybacking and a couple of (critical) toe jams. Most of the rest was climbing on the face on the right, with some stemming. Worthwhile, but was hoping for more different. 7 days ago
Ky Watson
Provo Utah
 
Ky Watson   Provo Utah
 
The p2 variation hand crack is awesome. Fun laybacking stemming and good gear placements, sticky revelations is easy one of the best routes on the wall. and definitely worth bringing up gear. Feb 5, 2017
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
Fun place to spend the day.

Good route, found the second pitch to be my favorite. Rock is more varnished and less sandy than on P1, bring 3 or 4 extendable draws to help easy drag towards the top(though I didn't notice much drag anyways)

The last 10a pitch looks fun, don't waste your time on the 5.9 pitch to the right. I felt like every hold was going to break off... Feb 7, 2015
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
Wanted to take my buddy on this route; cause he had never been to prophesy before. But the route was TRd from 10 am till dark by climbing schools. .
The school set up 4 lines so they took up effectively a third of the area and only had people doing laps on sticky revelations.
Pretty cheesy thing to do if you ask me. 3 lines were taken up most of the day with nobody on them. Mar 30, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
First pitch is fun, but is practically grid bolted. Way too many variations and extra bolts, none of them better than any others. Just go straight up and ignore all the unnecessary hardware.

Second pitch is fun until it mysteriously makes a 90 degree turn to gain the anchors. Bring a couple alpine draws to reduce the monster rope drag.

It looks like there's two third pitch variations. The pitch to the left of the anchors at the top of pitch two has a bouldery start so I climbed the pitch on the right. The righthand pitch is steep with oddly angled holds but they're all real positive and the separated pillar lets you bump up high without much trouble. Didn't climb the lefthand pitch, maybe it deserves the 5.10a grade but it isn't as obvious of a line. The climb all the way at the left is the 5.3 but isn't worth your time. Jan 11, 2013
The first pitch has a fork after the first two bolts. Going right will get you to the base of P2. Going left is equally fun but you'll end up at the base of the trad dihedral route, or you'll have to traverse 10 feet on a small ledge to the start of pitch 2. Nov 11, 2012
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10b/c
A great route! Awesome belay ledges. Got a bit confused on the first pitch (lots of bolts on this wall not in the guide).

The third pitch was tough though! If compared to Conditional Bliss (a 5.10a on the very left end of this wall), this should be rated a 5.10b/c for sure. Very crazy technical moves. Nov 6, 2012
javi
saint george area
javi   saint george area
Trad on p2 not worth bringing gear.75-4-1-6 shallow too Jul 29, 2012
Josh Triplett
Bountiful, UT
  5.10a
Josh Triplett   Bountiful, UT
  5.10a
This a great route for beginning climbers to start leading. It also has nice ledges at each set of anchors for multi-pitch beginners. There are rewards for choosing to go straight over the top (10a) on the last pitch. Several clever moves take you past the early crux and on to a feeling of real accomplishment. I felt that line however, could use one more bolt before the anchors, just to avoid a possible, if perhaps unlikely, long fall. There is also an easy 5.3 escape left and to the right a well protected 5.9. Apr 9, 2012
Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
This route is really fun. I really liked the long traverse on the bolted second pitch. Way cool. The third pitch ramp is super easy and has four bolts. The last bolt is about 5 feet from the belay anchors and I don't understand why it is there. Fun Route.

The variation to the right of the first pitch is called All Decked Out and does run at about 5.8. It is also really cool. Nov 11, 2009
There are now 3 bolted lines on the bottom pitch. I'm not sure but I think the middle one is the original line, although it felt easier than 5.7. The one on the left is a little harder with a thinner section in the middle and slightly overhanging finish. 5.7 - 5.8.
Also, I think this pitch is about 90 feet, not 70. Sep 14, 2008
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
There's a variation about 7 feet to the right of this route with a separate set of anchors at the ledge for the top of the first pitch. I don't know if this is a new route or just a variation of Sticky Revelations. If felt like about a .7/8. I'm guessing that it's a variation to the first pitch of Sticky Revelations because it's such a popular route.

BTW, there are bolts all over this wall these days. It's like an outdoor multi-pitch gym. Nov 8, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
This is also a classic route for the area. It's goes in 3 pitches, and don't skip the 3rd .10a pitch. It's a great finish and is protected pretty well by 3 bolts. Pitch 1 goes at 5.7, Pitch 2 at 5.8, with options for a trad var. In the big corner on the left. Which would also goes at 5.8. Then if you don't bail on the 5.3 for the final pitch, You get a stellar 5.10a pitch.
You bigger guy's take it easy on the starting flake for p3. It seems a little fragile (but doesnt all sandstone..?)
3 single rope rappels (60m) gets you too the bottom od this climb.

The exposure is sic for a sport route!! Oct 11, 2006