Type: Sport, 130 ft, Grade II
FA: Todd Goss & Chloe Ence
Page Views: 2,422 total · 22/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Nov 17, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Another longer single pitch route that climbs varnished edges up the middle of Prophecy Wall. This climb shares the first four bolts with Harbingers and Caging the Zealot, climbing the wall between these two routes. Route trends left on the main wall after the fourth bolt.

Location

Between Harbingers and Caging the Zealot.

Protection

13 bolts w/chain anchors.

NOTE
If using a 60 meter rope you will need to lower off the mid route anchors on Caging the Zealot. I used a 60 meter rope and was able to lower from the chains at the top to the 2nd bolt but had to down climb from there.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
This was an awesome route. Mainly because of the exposure. You already start on a ledge that's 20-30 feet up. Then, you proceed to climb one pitch of 130ft. So by the time you're done climbing one pitch, you're up there! The moves aren't that bad, and everything is there. It starts out with some slabby moves, then gets more vertical. Great climb! Loved it!

I've seen people rap from the mid-rap station of Caging the Zealot. Watch out for sheath wear though if you do this, you must traverse quite a bit. Our 70m made it in one rappel with 3-5ft to spare. Nov 6, 2012
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10a
This route seems slightly less vertical than Caging the Zealot and is less exposed. It is bolted really well, but the rope is still quite heavy when you get near the chains. Using longer runners on the first few draws helps with rope drag. It is also possible to go right from the last bolt before the chains and finish on the ledge for Caging the Zealot this allows you to belay your second up from there and go to the top, or rap from there to the mid-station. Sep 20, 2014