Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: I. Horn, T. Goss
Page Views: 3,015 total · 22/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

OK, I made up the route name. This is a variation of the first pitch of The Roofs of Jericho. Follow the first seven bolts and then continue straight up to a two-bolt anchor under the roof. Alternatively, go right a bit and clip two more bolts, traverse left a bit and then reach the anchors (The Roofs of Jericho follows the aforementioned two bolts and continues up and over the roof to a different anchor.)

Large varnished edges, a few slopers if you want them, and a few pinches as well. If you go straight up after the seventh bolt the varnished edges end and you continue up on rounded slopers and rounded edges. The bit from the seventh bolt to the anchors is a bit more run out than the rest, but is on somewhat easier ground.

Location

There is a light-colored, smoother-looking area right about the middle of Prophesy Wall. This route starts at the left side of the smoother-looking area, just right of the vertical bulge that delimits the left side of the area. It is also under a large roof/arch.

Protection

7 bolts (or 9), 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks/chain connectors, and also webbing with a rap ring and a quicklink (as of Oct 2007).

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Unsure where this is? Are you saying this and RofJ use the same bolts to start? Jan 28, 2014
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.9
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
  5.9
Yes. Jan 30, 2014
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I like this variation, mostly because it saves your rope the drag from the anchors on the 10c route. For this climb, the anchors stop just below a roof (I think the book calls in an arch), if you pull the roof you see the 10c anchors back on a ledge-- same anchors for Whatever Happens Happens (5.9)

Doing the 5.9 variation is just a fun, quick route. The last 2 bolts before the anchor seemed pretty far to the right so I skipped them, maybe they're not on route anyway (?) Dec 6, 2014
kenr  
If done on Top-Rope, could be a fun climb for a less-strong climber. Because the crux is near the top, and what comes before is sustained 5.6 climbing, fun as in indoor-gym. So someone could enjoy that, then just lower off when it gets too hard. Nov 10, 2017