Type: Sport, 220 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,885 total · 29/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Oct 31, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Formerly a trad line that was rated 5.9R, Gordian Knot has been retro-bolted in the past few years after a fall produced a heinous injury. A pitch has also been added to the top of the wall.

P1 - Start to the left of the house sized rock at the base of Sticky Revelations and climb past 3 bolts to a ledge with a 3 bolt anchor. 5.7, 3 bolts.

P2 - Climb through thin holds to the roof using the right side of the arete to pull over, continue through a awkward moves to two rap anchors. 5.10a, 7 bolts.

P3 - Continue up over another small roof to the top a large ledge. 5.10b, 3 bolts.

P4 - The last pitch involves long reaches with little to no feet for a the first two bolts before the holds get better. Climb past 3 bolts to the top of the wall. 5.10d, 3 bolts.

Recommend running pitch 2 and 3 together. If pitch 4 was as fun as the rest of the route this would get 4 stars.

Location

Gordian Knot climbs the arete just to the left of Sticky Revelations. It starts on the left side of the large rock formation to the left of the start for Sticky Revelations.

Protection

10 quickdraws, plus whatever you need for the anchors.

Descend by rapping Sticky Revelations

Photos

boltclippinfool
  5.10d
boltclippinfool  
  5.10d
Great route! Cool moves and great position, especially on pitch 2. Start on the first pitch of Presence (5.9) then link pitch 2 & 3, bring a couple of long runners... awesome! 4th pitch is 5.hard, but you can bump 20ft. right to the anchors of Sticky Revelations for a final pitch of 10a. Dec 7, 2012
Dillon Vesper
  5.11a
Dillon Vesper  
  5.11a
started with the first 2 pitches on sticky revelations than decided to climb the 4th pitch of this climb on our last instead of the 10a. very tough last pitch (especially for a shorty) moves not so straight forward, id give the last pitch closer to 11a/b rating. Nov 16, 2013
Trevor
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
2nd pitch is great, the upper half being a bit unique compared to the rest of the wall... Jan 26, 2015
Charles Yang
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10d
Charles Yang   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10d
Linked 1-2, 3-4. P4 was hard to read. 70m rope. 2 raps down sticky revelations to the right. Jun 4, 2018