Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||293 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Russ Walling on Apr 4, 2015|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
DescriptionThe first pitch is a sandy crack to the right of Misfit Prophets and left of The Secrets of Fatima. This pitch is mostly easy and goes at about 5.8 or so with adequate pro. The anchor is for some reason a fair distance off to the right at a stance on a slab. There is one bolt, a chopped bolt and you can get in a couple of 1" to 1.5" cams in a good slot. Be careful crossing over to this anchor from the crack as there is lots of loose rock floating around on the slab.
For pitch two, you need to go back left a good ways into the big right facing corner. If you go straight up from the anchor there will be a fixed pin and some super junky rock leading up a broken crack feature. This is not the way to go. Get into the big corner and look for a bolt under a small rooflet. Follow the big corner to the top of the pillar to a 3 bolt anchor. 5.9 tops for this pitch with good pro.
Pitch three starts left of the belay at a line bolts. Follow the bolted crack to the top. 5.7.
This route is rated 5.10 in the Goss Guide, but seemed quite a bit easier, even with the sand, loose rock, and off route potential. It might be 5.8+ for 5.10 leaders.
LocationScramble or lead up the opening pillar past two bolts to a fixed line on a ledge system about 25 feet off the ground. Belay here for both this route and The Secrets of Fatima which is to the right a short distance..
Rap Misfit Prophets with a single 70m rope. The other anchors on the summit are a jumble of chain and random bolts well back from the lip. It is sort of a mess.
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