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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 3,214 total · 31/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.

Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.

Location

About 70' above pitch 1 of Sticky Revelations is a ledge. On the far left side of this ledge is an anchor and the start of this right facing crack corner. Its the only and most obvious crack on this side.

Protection

This crack takes mostly small to medium protection. A full, single rack up to 3", stoppers, slings and draws will work just fine.

Photos

Jeremy Polk
Sandy, UT
5.8
Jeremy Polk   Sandy, UT
5.8
If this feels harder than 5.8, try doing it differently. I used a single set of cams from tcu's up to a #4 Camelot and didn't place any nuts at all. I linked this with the 5.10 finish to make for a really cool pitch. If the route directly below this is being used, you can build an anchor in the crack with medium to large sized gear but make sure you have doubles in those sizes because you'll need them for the climb. There are 3 different 5.7ish bolted routes to get to the big ledge that this climb starts from so take your pick for the first pitch. Apr 2, 2016
JP Shrewsbury  
5.9
I climbed this route on a top rope from the Book of Prophesy rap station, reached by traversing the upper part of the 'regular' P2 to "Sticky Revelations" (S.R.). The start was reached by rapping to the large P1 ledge above "Breaking the Sabbath." This variation was the most fun of all the S.R. pitches. It was considerably more difficult than the other P2s of S.R. and about as hard (but slightly less exposed) than the 5.10a third pitch. I rate it at 5.9. Oct 16, 2012
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.8
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.8
This climb was a lot of fun I combined the left bolt line on breaking the sabeth with book of prophesy for one long climb. Lots of fun, just use alot of long runners and rope drag should not be a problem at all. My largest cam was a #4 cam but the run out (about 15 feet) was not bad. The crux is before the crack widens and protected well with a #1 Cam. Nov 29, 2011
Doubles for Camelot #4&5 Aug 10, 2011