The Book of Prophesy Var.
Avg: 2.9 from 11 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||M. Nad, J. Nad|
|Page Views:||3,214 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Aug 27, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
DescriptionOn the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.