The Book of Prophesy Var.
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2939, -113.6932 |
| FA: | M. Nad, J. Nad |
| Page Views: | 28,362 total · 142/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Aug 27, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
On the ledge about about half way up Sticky Revelations is a right facing corner. The Book of Prophesy Variation is a good traditional pitch using all techniques of climbing. It ascends a crack that ends on a short steep face.
Climb any of the many south-side routes to gain the large ledge 70' up. From the ledge look north/left to locate the crack.
A little hard to get into, this route eventually eases up lie-backing through a solid and varnished corner using finger-locks, then jams. Follow the crack up and slightly right reaching the crux 30 feet up at a bulge. Continue past this bulge following a petering crack climbing the face on large edges to the belay.
Location
Find gentle solid-rock platform at bottom of right side of cliff which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar. About 70-80 ft up from that is a ledge with three bolts+chains+rings anchors. The middle one of those anchors is the top of pitch 1 of the route "Sticky Revelations".
The left-most of these anchors is under an obvious right-facing inside corner with a crack. This anchor is at the top of the one-pitch bolted route "Breaking the Sabbath". The route "Book of Prophesy" starts here and goes up that corner-with-crack. It finishes by the multi-bolt anchor at the top of pitch 2 of "Sticky Revelations".



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