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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: D. Woods, C Hammer
Page Views: 873 total, 10/month
Shared By: Doug Foust on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

This route has a bit of an alpine feel on friable/chossy rock. I liked the route for the sense of adventure, the good rock and pro is there when you really need it. Don't forget your helmet!

Pitch 1 - Climb past 2 bolts on low angle but friable/chossy rock, then stem your way up chimney to pillar until the rock gets solid, then climb pillar to base of chimney(100 ft.)

Pitch 2 - Stem up to face with varnished rock, sling horn or place small nut before comitting to chossy rock and climbing pillar with no pro. Stem through chimney before reaching good varnished rock and pro. Pull through varnished rock to get on top of pillar. (80 feet)

Pitch 3 - Climb up through wide, steep crack to summit (30 Feet)

Location

Descent - Class 3 down into wash on backside of of wall. Follow the wash north until wall turns into hill, then go up and over hill back up to the big pipe and road.

Protection

Standard rack up #4 Camalot. Small nuts are quite useful.

Photos

Matthew Colemere
Alpine, Utah
  5.8
Matthew Colemere   Alpine, Utah
  5.8
Did this route about a year ago now, and my wife and I enjoyed it because it has a feel of adventure climbing to it. Rock isn't great, had to sling some thin patina flakes, had to wait at a certain spot for a while mid pitch for an owl to fly away, and was constantly testing holds hoping they wouldn't break. I don't know if I would give it the R rating, although falling in a couple spots would be pretty bad. Second pitch you can get in the chimney for 10 feet or so and pop out of a hole up higher which was pretty fun. I recommend it not for the quality of the line but for the adventure. Nov 8, 2017
Jordan Perlmutter  
  5.8 R
This route is....adventurous. The St. George guidebook lists almost no info besides the fact that it's all on gear, and I wish I had known about the R rating. This is NOT a good route for new leaders to 5.8 or trad. The second pitch especially has some airy run-outs and horrifically fragile rock. Though the line is obvious from the ground and is technically climbable, it's probably not worth your time. Mar 27, 2017