Type: TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 309 total · 28/month
Shared By: kenr on Nov 20, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Interesting moves at an easier grade. Wanders around to find the path of least resistance. Can make it more difficult by wanderling less.

Start in the big right-facing inside corner with wide crack at where the right edge or the right (S) face of the pillar (almost) meets the West-facing wall of the main cliff.
. . . Variation: "The Other Cheek": Instead start near left (SW) side of the right (South) face of the "Mount" pillar -- up steep jugs to stand on its top.
. . . "Dimpled Cheek" variation: up jugs in center of the right face.
. . . "Pinched Cheek" variation: up jugs on right (SE) edge of the right face of "Mount" pillar, without touching hand or foot across the wide crack to the W-facing wall of the main cliff.

Up that corner-with-crack to its top, and stand up on the highest point of the "Sermon on the Mount" pillar.
. . . (Have a monologue ready to deliver?)

Next get onto the main face of the cliff and roughly straight up staying left of a vague crack, and get up onto a smooth wide ledge (5.5 so far). Traverse horizontal right a few feet across the bolts for the route "Breaking the Sabbath". Next follow the path of least resistance: perhaps diagonal up right toward below the wide overhang, then diagonal back up left, and finish in gully just left of bolt anchor for the route "Sticky Revelations".

warning: Significant danger of breaking or loose rock, since this line has not been climbed much yet. Belayer and all other persons should stay far off to the side from anyone climbing above. Best to avoid this route when other parties are nearby who might also be endangered by a falling rock.

name: The current name is a placeholder until someone Leads this route (likely after installing some bolts), who can then give us the permanent name for this route.

Location

At the 25-ft-tall detached pillar (the "Mount") just left from wide gentle solid-rock platform by the right end of this Wall.

- - > See line F in this Photo

. . . . or in this Photo

. . . . or in this Photo

variation: "The Other Cheek" - - > line vF in this Photo

Protection

Bolts+chains+rings top anchor, but No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Top-Rope from bolts+anchors+chains anchor at top of pitch 1 of the route "Breaking the Sabbath", likely with directional protection on one or more of the upper bolts of "Breaking" to prevent a falling climber from hitting protruding rock by swinging sideways.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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