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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wafer Wash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,164 total · 10/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

A more beefed up version of its neighbor , Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).

Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)

Location

Technical Knee-Highs sits on the far north side of the buttress, just right of Non-Technical Church Socks

Protection

A large selection of draws, and a few slings. The upper anchor for this route is set back behind a bulge, long runners or a cordelette will help reduce rope drag and abrasion.

Photos

SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
If you climb this to the first set of anchors it is only 5.9 and a lot of fun. May 5, 2014
brucy
  5.10c
brucy  
  5.10c
At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick hanger rap bolt). Forward thinking- guys, leaving it like this! Apr 9, 2015
Casey M
  5.8+
Casey M  
  5.8+
I climbed this to the first set of anchors (See Option 1 above). It wasn't particularly challenging, but it was a fun climb. Note that there are no chains attached as an anchor, just two side-by-side bolts. You'll likely need to leave some gear behind to get down safely unless you intend to continue to the top. Feb 15, 2016
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
 
Finn The Human   The Land of Ooo
 
As of March 2016 there are two Metolius rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, just below the roof. No need to leave gear, just rap off. Mar 21, 2016

More About Technical Knee-Highs

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