Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,199 total · 10/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

A more beefed up version of its neighbor , Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).

Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)

Location

Technical Knee-Highs sits on the far north side of the buttress, just right of Non-Technical Church Socks

Protection

A large selection of draws, and a few slings. The upper anchor for this route is set back behind a bulge, long runners or a cordelette will help reduce rope drag and abrasion.

Photos

SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
If you climb this to the first set of anchors it is only 5.9 and a lot of fun. May 5, 2014
brucy
  5.10c
brucy  
  5.10c
At present (10/14) this is a two (2) pitch route. We thought the grading to be at most 10c- there being no move on it harder then "maybe" 10b, and that was at the end going to the anchors by staying in the mini-dihedral on the right.

Best recommendation: end the 1st pitch under the roof; do a short 4 bolt crux second pitch; and, finally, do the current last pitch 5.10a 12 bolt, when, a proper two (2) bolt anchor is installed (as of now it features a single Metolius thick hanger rap bolt). Forward thinking- guys, leaving it like this! Apr 9, 2015
Casey M
  5.8+
Casey M  
  5.8+
I climbed this to the first set of anchors (See Option 1 above). It wasn't particularly challenging, but it was a fun climb. Note that there are no chains attached as an anchor, just two side-by-side bolts. You'll likely need to leave some gear behind to get down safely unless you intend to continue to the top. Feb 15, 2016
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
 
Finn The Human   The Land of Ooo
 
As of March 2016 there are two Metolius rap anchors at the top of the first pitch, just below the roof. No need to leave gear, just rap off. Mar 21, 2016