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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: T. Goss, F. Antognini
Page Views: 808 total, 14/month
Shared By: Patrick Stark on May 6, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

The route starts up the mossy arete to the right of the rather blank tan face that is to the right of the start of Roofs of Jericho (10 bolts, 5.9). The first pitch ends at an anchor on a large ledge beneath the vertical red face. The second pitch ascends the steep face past 7 bolts to a three bolt anchor. Descent can be done in two rappels with a single rope, although there will be a bit of down climbing on the second rappel.

Protection

Bolts. Anchors have rap rings.

Photos

brucy
  5.11c
brucy  
  5.11c
Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prophesy Wall. Apr 9, 2015
Ira O
Hardwick, VT
Ira O   Hardwick, VT
That second pitch is wicked! The first was not so great but the second up the steep smooth upper face was killer. I think it is accurately rated at 10d, but that said I'd say that it is significantly harder than any of the other similarly rated climbs on this wall. It must be a pretty new route, someone had lightly marked key holds with blue chalk, which I was greatful for, otherwise I would not have been able to climb it clean. Mar 3, 2015