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Thieves Karma

5.11b, Sport, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 37 votes
FA: T. Goss, F. Antognini
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Prophesy Wall
Warning Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. DetailsDrop down

Description

The route starts up the mossy arete to the right of the rather blank tan face that is to the right of the start of Roofs of Jericho (10 bolts, 5.9). The first pitch ends at an anchor on a large ledge beneath the vertical red face. The second pitch ascends the steep face past 7 bolts to a three bolt anchor. Descent can be done in two rappels with a single rope, although there will be a bit of down climbing on the second rappel.

Protection

Bolts. Anchors have rap rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Andrew on the 1st pitch of Thieves Karma
[Hide Photo] Chris Andrew on the 1st pitch of Thieves Karma
Goes up the first two steps and then straight up from the second to the top.  Been a while since I climbed this so I'm not remembering where the anchors were... sorry, but it was bolted fully, no cams were needed.
[Hide Photo] Goes up the first two steps and then straight up from the second to the top. Been a while since I climbed this so I'm not remembering where the anchors were... sorry, but it was bolted fully, no c…
Nate & I on the Last Pitch!
[Hide Photo] Nate & I on the Last Pitch!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ira OMC
Hardwick, VT
[Hide Comment] That second pitch is wicked! The first was not so great but the second up the steep smooth upper face was killer. I think it is accurately rated at 10d, but that said I'd say that it is significantly harder than any of the other similarly rated climbs on this wall. It must be a pretty new route, someone had lightly marked key holds with blue chalk, which I was greatful for, otherwise I would not have been able to climb it clean. Mar 3, 2015
brucy
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Some route correction(s):

One, the wonderful first pitch is 14 bolts long (not 10), and the rappel is all of 110'- be aware. Yes, there are anchors at the end of this pitch.

Two, the second pitch crux is on bolts 1 and 3, and is ego based sandbagged at 10d- we thought it to be as difficult as 11c- tho 4 thru to the anchor felt like 10d. We recognize that there are areas in the country where it would be entirely appropriate to rate this climb as a 10d- plenty of them- just not here at the Prophesy Wall. Apr 9, 2015
Della Fixsen
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] First pitch was great. Quite wild for a 5.9. Start of second pitch was a scary lead bc the crux is right above a ledge. Be sure you are solid on crimps! May 27, 2019
Neesha B
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Agreed that the second pitch is significantly harder than any other 10 I tried at Prophesy and pretty beta-intensive. A harder 11 grade (maybe 11b/c?) may be more accurate when grading in comparison to the other routes in this area. Still a lot of fun, it starts off with a cool boulder problem and I found the first pitch enjoyable too.

There is another anchor above the third bolt on P2 with rap rings. If this second pitch is followed it may be worth clipping that anchor - I didn't and my partner had a hard time following, the bolt line kept pulling them right. Nov 8, 2020
Matthew Hinckley
American fork Utah
 
[Hide Comment] Now has a third pitch and pitch 3 goes at around 10.d if you follow bolt line May 15, 2022