Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Beitler x2
Page Views: 584 total · 10/month
Shared By: SMH Climber on May 5, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Fun new bolt line.

Location

in between technical knee highs and wooden hammer.

Protection

Lots of quick draws. with bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch. not sure about the anchor for the second pitch.

Photos

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SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.10
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.10
Another climber told us this was 5.8 which most of it is but the crux 3/4 the way up the first pitch was definitely 5.10 but really good climbing. I did not get to do the second pitch but it looks like more moderate fun climbing. We used a 70m rope so I am not sure if a 60m would work or not. May 5, 2014
brucy
 
brucy  
 
1st pitch crux is 10a coming in from the right, or, 10d coming in slightly from the left on small friable crimps (of which we broke a couple).

2nd pitch felt like 10a but was very, very friable and definately not recommended.

60 meter rope worked just fine. Apr 9, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
If this is the route sharing the start with Wooden Hammer we thought it to be about 5.8 but we did not do the top pitch. We did one 35 meter pitch to some heavy chains, passing a nice ledge half way that had rap hangers. A little dirty (new) but should clean up nicely. Nov 24, 2015
Finn The Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.10a/b
Finn The Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.10a/b
Climbed this over the weekend. Doesn't seem to get done much. The first 20 feet or so were pretty dirty and had lichen growing on it. After the first few bolts the route cleans up and is very enjoyable climbing on good varnish, up until the crux.

As stated, the crux is about 3/4 of the way up. The varnish gives way to softer white sandstone for 5-10 feet. The holds were a little slopey and often covered in a thin layer of sand. Instead of trying to go straight up the dirty blank section, we climbed to the right on jugs then traversed back in to clip. There was a large hueco to the right that worked as a great hold... until it broke. It should still be possible to traverse in from the right to clip, but it may be a little harder now.

At the top of the first pitch there was a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings, and a single glue-in only halfway sunk in the wall, with no glue to be seen. Didn't climb the second pitch. We rapped off the 1st pitch using a 70m rope and had a couple meters to spare.

I think it'll clean up into a real fun climb, but as it is it definitely needs a little work.

Also, route name suggestion: Anti-Knee-High-Levi's Mar 21, 2016
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
We called this "Zack's Route" for a few years. The latest edition of Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as "Long Time Coming". Sep 18, 2017
Kendall
St George, UT
  5.10b
Kendall   St George, UT
  5.10b
Haha, great idea for the route name, Finn.

Stan, it sounds like you were on a different route.

P1 is long and fun, didn't do P2. Nov 26, 2017