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Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams)

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British


 Avg: 2.5 from 41 votes

Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: First retro bolted ascent: Todd Goss, Jerry Howard
Page Views: 3,231 total, 26/month
Shared By: TylerPhillips on Oct 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

{Perin's great sport description} Climb large, varnished edges on mostly less-than-vertical terrain. Two short sections of vertical or slightly overhanging rock keep things interesting. The crux is between the penultimate and last bolts. After the last bolt bear right to the anchors above the roof/arch. Rappel off or continue up the second pitch of The Roofs of Jericho.

There is one perfect hand jam, and a couple of places for tight hands jams. Some of the holds are intricately shaped and look somewhat delicate.

Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as 90 feet long. However, when I reached the chains I was about two feet short of the half mark on a 70 meter rope, which would indicate about 110 feet (allowing for the knot). Note that the rappel line is well to the right of the route line and ends on higher ground than the start of the route. There appeared to be sufficient rope remaining in the 70 meter to indicate that a 60 meter rope would work also for the rappel. {end Perin's great description}

Sadly this route was bolted over after an all gear FA was made in 1996. The name the retrobolters gave it reflects their true ethics of the crag, which is sadly overbolted.
If you have a rack and want to climb it w/out clipping bolts (it's the exact same line) bring many small and medium sized cams along with the standard rack up to #4 camalot. Small nutz & slings were helpful as well.

I do remember the start being a bit spicey, with a slung chickenhead or 2 then we(Pete VanSlooten and I)climbed to and belayed from the same ledge as Roofs of Jericho, but used gear for the belay (bolts now grace this ledge). We then climbed up and left following a chimney finishing on low angle patinas/crack system. Walkoff around the back heading north then wrap around to the base of the wall (south).

Location

There is a light-colored, smoother-looking area right about the middle of Prophesy Wall. This route starts on the vertical bulge (not quite a pillar) that delimits the left side of the smoother-looking area. This is the second line of bolts to the left of the smoother area The first line ot bolts is the route Equanimity (which had its anchor about 60 feet up). The third line (to the left) is Ship of Fools, which has a 3-chain rap anchor about 60 feet up.

Protection

12 bolts, hangers-and-chain anchor. Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists 11 bolts. The first bolt is low and kind of useless; like the rest of them...... perhaps it was added later.

Gear: Doubles on everything to #2 Camalot. Singles on #3 & #4 Camalot. A triple set up to #.75 Camalot is very nice. Full set of nuts w/ focus on smaller sizes, slings helpful.

Photos

kenr  
warning about Location:
This route is the second line of bolts to the left of the smoother area of the wall (which has the route "Roofs of Jericho" just inside its left end) -- starts a bit down the hill (left below a small gnarly tree) from the bottom of "Jericho".

The first line ot bolts to left of the smooth area (and left of "Jericho") is the route Equanimity (which has its anchor about 60 feet up) -- often rated as 5.10c.

The third bolt line (to the left of "Whatever") is Ship of Fools, which has a 3-chain rap anchor about 60 feet up.

So if you mistakenly climb the first bolt line left of the smooth wall, you'll soon run into a sequence way harder than "Whatever". Nov 8, 2017
Darren Dash Robinson
Cedar City, Utah
  5.8+
Darren Dash Robinson   Cedar City, Utah
  5.8+
Seemed more like a 5.8 with a couple 5.9 cruxes, but nonetheless it was a great climb. Beware of lots of rope drag. Dec 23, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.9
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.9
This route was excellent (on sport). Made the mistake of leading it last in my group. Therefore I had to clean the route on rappel. This was pretty tough. I recommend sending up a second-er behind ya to grab the gear. Good climb though! Maybe one day I'll try it on trad. Mar 26, 2013
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Tyler, did you name it? Wanna be listed as the FA? I'd be happy to edit it. Or, if you like, I'll just assign the route to you and you can edit the description and other information as you see fit. Nov 7, 2007