Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: T. Goss, M. Hansen
Page Views: 3,449 total · 29/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 14, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Haribangers shares the same start with Caging the Zealot. Depart left and onto the shoulder of the pillar after Zealot's fifth bolt. Gain a nice ledge with a rap anchor and belay from here.

Haribangers casts off just left of the belay, it starts off insecure on shallow edges and demands adequate strength. Climb the arete past two bolts until you reach a more useful hold, Clip the third bolt and rock onto the face. Side pulls, edges, and a round pinch or two follow the sharp ridge up and right to a balancing stance. Clip and climb past three more bolts and save your power for the final moves to the anchor. Hang on and make that clip!

Start and stay on the right side of the arete for the full .11 rating.

Location

Haribangers is high above a left leaning pillar in the middle of the Prophesy Wall.
Its most easily recognized by its steep, and proud varnished arete.

Protection

Six bolts plus anchor.

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10d
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
  5.10d
Good climb, but the anchors are in a really dumb location. Plenty of good rock in line with the rest of the climb. O well.
5.10d Apr 19, 2009
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Lowering off Conditional Bliss is a good way to get to the anchors at the base of this climb. A long sling over a horn can be used to protect the hand traverse to the anchors. Jan 19, 2015
Trevor
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Trevor   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
too bad this route is so short. it climbs some of the best rock on the entire wall... Jan 26, 2015
brucy
  5.10d
brucy  
  5.10d
Fun crux pitch on buckets out left on the arete.

Can one find any 5.11b? Sure, if one contrivedly traverses over to the right and straddles the last bolt. You'll be rewarded with a long, long reach to a painful crimp. Worth it- not! Apr 9, 2015
Mike-Mayhem
Bozeman. MT
Mike-Mayhem   Bozeman. MT
i would say that this route should be graded a 10.c and encourage the use of holds on the left side of the corner. This route was super fun, too bad it was short!

Also I have to say that I think the anchor is in a great location.. the traverse was probably the best part of the route. It provides some exposed moves on giant jugs with very little for feet. Also the whip wouldn't be bad at all if you were to fall.. Mar 17, 2017