Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Goss
Page Views: 3,983 total · 30/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Harsh Reality starts on a lower angle ramp that steepens as it gets closer to the crux on the first pitch. Varnished holds, great exposure, and a long first pitch mark this typical Prophecy Wall route.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 130 feet, 12 bolts) - Climb up and right on varnished holds that leads to the large crack system that start midway up the first pitch. Climb past mid route rappel anchors. Crux is the small roof at the 9th bolt. Continue climbing up lower angled climbing past 3 more bolts to a spacious ledge for the belay.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 50 feet, 5 bolts) - Continue up the wall and to the right. Climb ends before the top of the wall.

Descent - Rap the route with two rappels. Mid route rappel anchors

Location

Located 20 feet right of the start of Caging the Zealot.

Protection

12 bolts plus rappel anchors.

Photos

Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.9
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.9
First time at Prophecy wall. The sandy footholds got some taking used to, and a foothold broke off while climbing, but still really fun! Gonna definitely spend a good weekend in this area.

The climb is great though. Good exposure for people not used to it (the route starts on a ledge already 50 feet up). The route also gets quite vertical, which is fun for a 5.9 Oct 9, 2012
Austin Harris
Rifle CO
Austin Harris   Rifle CO
We made the mistake of bringin a 2nd rope up to rap in just one go from the very top. The rope drag was so intense we almost couldnt pull th rope after rappeling. I would advise rappeling in stages just to avoid this. May 2, 2014
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
I think this is the one that has painted black hangers? Apr 6, 2016
Hey! Can somebody tell me if its possible to do this wall with a 60m rope, or do I need an 80m rope to safely rappel down the first pitch? May 6, 2016
Did this route today for the first time. We used a 70m rope. When you climb the first pitch, skip past what appears to be two belay station bolts (on a bulge or minor roof-- maybe 90-100 feet up). This is NOT a belay station. This is supposedly a rappel anchor. As of today, the right bolt was spinning. I put a quickdraw on the left bolt and continued up the first pitch. 1st pitch is the longest... about 130 feet to a large, nice shelf to belay from. 2nd pitch is short, but a wee bit technical in a part for a 5.9... but very doable. 2nd pitch is about 50 feet.

After we both reached the top belay, we both scrambled off rope to the summit for an awesome view.

Rappel from the end of pitch 2 station (the top). There are no chains on the large hangers, but the rope cleans just fine as long as you pull through the left hanger. If you pull the rope through the right hanger, get ready for some drag. From the top of the 1st pitch belay station, a 70m hits the ground with a bit to spare. I doubt a 60m would reach the ground from pitch 1 belay anchors.

I am guessing this is the case: 60m will get you up both pitches just fine. I am guessing on this as well (it also seems to be what the guide book is suggesting): rap from 2nd pitch belay station, skipping the 1st pitch belay to the hangers on the roof. That's about 80 feet down. Then rap one more time, about 90-100 feet from the hangers with no chains to the bottom. I would NOT recommend this with a 60m, since a hanger is spinning on that "rappel" station.

Take a 70m and you're in Send City and Rap-ville, USA. Mar 24, 2018