[Hide Comment] First time at Prophecy wall. The sandy footholds got some taking used to, and a foothold broke off while climbing, but still really fun! Gonna definitely spend a good weekend in this area.

The climb is great though. Good exposure for people not used to it (the route starts on a ledge already 50 feet up). The route also gets quite vertical, which is fun for a 5.9 Oct 9, 2012

[Hide Comment] We made the mistake of bringin a 2nd rope up to rap in just one go from the very top. The rope drag was so intense we almost couldnt pull th rope after rappeling. I would advise rappeling in stages just to avoid this. May 2, 2014

[Hide Comment] I think this is the one that has painted black hangers? Apr 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] Hey! Can somebody tell me if its possible to do this wall with a 60m rope, or do I need an 80m rope to safely rappel down the first pitch? May 6, 2016

[Hide Comment] Did this route today for the first time. We used a 70m rope. When you climb the first pitch, skip past what appears to be two belay station bolts (on a bulge or minor roof-- maybe 90-100 feet up). This is NOT a belay station. This is supposedly a rappel anchor. As of today, the right bolt was spinning. I put a quickdraw on the left bolt and continued up the first pitch. 1st pitch is the longest... about 130 feet to a large, nice shelf to belay from. 2nd pitch is short, but a wee bit technical in a part for a 5.9... but very doable. 2nd pitch is about 50 feet.

After we both reached the top belay, we both scrambled off rope to the summit for an awesome view.

Rappel from the end of pitch 2 station (the top). There are no chains on the large hangers, but the rope cleans just fine as long as you pull through the left hanger. If you pull the rope through the right hanger, get ready for some drag. From the top of the 1st pitch belay station, a 70m hits the ground with a bit to spare. I doubt a 60m would reach the ground from pitch 1 belay anchors.

I am guessing this is the case: 60m will get you up both pitches just fine. I am guessing on this as well (it also seems to be what the guide book is suggesting): rap from 2nd pitch belay station, skipping the 1st pitch belay to the hangers on the roof. That's about 80 feet down. Then rap one more time, about 90-100 feet from the hangers with no chains to the bottom. I would NOT recommend this with a 60m, since a hanger is spinning on that "rappel" station.

Take a 70m and you're in Send City and Rap-ville, USA. Mar 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] CAUTION: Did this route and found the rappel anchors to be unsafe. The right hanger/bolt is spinning/really loose and should not be used. I had to traverse to the left and use the mid rap anchors on Mystic Dictator to rap off. Jan 12, 2020

[Hide Comment] Seconding Channing Lowe's beta. The "mid-route rappel" anchors still have a spinning right bolt. Continue up over the baby roof to a great ledge to break up the pitches. Rapping from here with a 70m is the way to go. Feb 22, 2022

[Hide Comment] Someone should go up with a wrench and remove the quicklinks that have been put on the rap hangers. I'll probably go up and do it myself the next time I'm here but who knows how long that will be until. We got our rope all sorts of twisted by them. I couldn't get them loose by hand. Great route though! Feb 12, 2023