Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Goss, E. Jones
Page Views: 2,368 total · 18/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt. Another moderate route that is destined to become a St. George classic, Caging the Zealot offers miles of good climbing with two small cruxes, both on the first pitch. First crux is about 15 feet off the small ledge where the routes diverge. Second crux is toward the top of the pitch and offers some great exposure.

Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay).

Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall.

Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.

Location

Located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, Caging the Zealot is about 50 feet left The Visionaries. Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt.

Protection

15 bolts plus rappel anchors

Photos

jtwalter
Orem, UT
  5.10b
jtwalter   Orem, UT
  5.10b
Routes to the left of Caging the Zealot are (from left to right):

Harbinger - .11b
Conditional Bliss - .10a Nov 21, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Felt like the first pitch was no harder than 5.10a, maybe 5.9. Second pitch was 5.7ish. Juggy climbing. Really fun! Nov 26, 2007
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a/b
Felt very similar (in style and grade) to Conditional Bliss. If you want variation and a bit of spice, try Mystic Dictator (not in the guide book but is on Mountain Project). Equal in the grade, but way different (bulge-y roofs!) Nov 6, 2012
Don Gilman
St. George, Utah
  5.9+
Don Gilman   St. George, Utah
  5.9+
I loved this climb. A little soft for the rating. Sep 23, 2014