Caging the Zealot
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 75 votes
Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | T. Goss, E. Jones |
Page Views: | 3,772 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | jtwalter on Nov 19, 2007 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted.
Details
Continue down the road about another mile toward the double camelback formation near Gunlock. This is BLM owned land, and offers parking and dispersed camping where you won't be the guy to get the Prophesy closed to climbing.
Description
Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt. Another moderate route that is destined to become a St. George classic, Caging the Zealot offers miles of good climbing with two small cruxes, both on the first pitch. First crux is about 15 feet off the small ledge where the routes diverge. Second crux is toward the top of the pitch and offers some great exposure.
Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay).
Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall.
Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.
Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay).
Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall.
Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.
Location
Located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, Caging the Zealot is about 50 feet left The Visionaries. Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt.
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