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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wafer Wash S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Sport, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: T.Goss, M. Wells
Page Views: 8,943 total · 68/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Another fun moderate multipitch route on Prophecy Wall, Past Lives offers good climbing on the varnished holds typical of other routes at Prophecy. The route faces north and goes up a pillar that is separated from the main wall. The route trends slightly left for the entire length.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Start of the base of the pillar and climb up and trend slightly left. Belay ledge midway up the pillar on two rappel bolts.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Continue up pillar past tricky crux with small holds to the top of the pillar. Belay bolts are just below the lip of the pillar.

Pitch 3 - (5.7, 25 feet - 3 bolts) Step off top of the pillar to main wall and climb to the top of main wall.

Descent - 3 rappels down route with a 60 meter rope. The first rappel is fairly straight forward to the top of the pillar. The second rappel drops you straight down the wide chasm between the pillar and the main wall, however. For the last 30 feet you're hanging free of the rock. You'll end up left of the belay ledge and need to push off the main wall with the left leg and make a small leap to the right to get to the last rappel station. Third rappel is basic.

Location

Past Lives is located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, directly right of a black water streak. From the main trail head south at a large sandy area up the wash to a series of ramps. Scramble up the ramps to the base of the north facing pillar that is separated from the main wall.

Protection

9 bolts, plus rappel bolts.
tenesmus  
 
What are the routes just left of this in the shady alcove? They look very interesting. Nov 6, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
There's a pretty wide section of the main wall to the left of Past Lives that are listed as 'projects' in the guide book, including the black water streak. However, I did see bolts in that shady area you mention. I don't have any personal experience there but I'm sure that Outdoor Outlet would have information if they've been completed. Nov 7, 2007
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
With a 70m rope you can get down with a single rap from the top of the second pitch. You end up on a ledge from which you downclimb about 25 feet of 3rd class terrain. Nov 18, 2007
Jared R
 
Jared R  
 
This route is super fun. There is a fun crux on the first pitch as well as the second pitch. The third pitch is cool because you have to lean over a 15-20ft chasm to get onto the main wall. Super cool! Do it. Nov 11, 2009
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Great exposure and positive holds make this an excellent climb. Pretty well protected and has excellent clipping stances. The third pitch is neat, but clocks in at maybe 5.5 and is very short. Jan 11, 2013
Tara Hansen  
 
Climbed the first 2 pitches of this route, it was getting dark so we opted out of the 3rd pitch. P1 was a fun TR for me with the reachy crux (I'm short so most things seem reachy) P2 I lead & was my favorite climb of the day! Super fun exposure on small edges and some side pulls, but I was not a fan of the belay station at the top (very small shelf). Mar 31, 2014
Austin Harris
Rifle CO
 
Austin Harris   Rifle CO
 
very fun and safe. sustained 5.8 climin with a few good 5.9 moves Apr 25, 2014
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.9
Great climb with awesome view. Easy straightforward climbing with fairly comfortable belays. Jan 25, 2016
Bnasty
  5.9+
Bnasty  
  5.9+
Love this route! There are two specific moves I believe are 5.9+. The rap down from pitch 2 anchors with a 70 meter rope is gorgeous! Be careful pulling the rope, we didn't have any problems but it looks like there are so many places to get a rope stuck. Mar 29, 2016
Logan Freiburg
Illinois - Missouri
  5.9-
Logan Freiburg   Illinois - Missouri
  5.9-
You can easily walk off the top. The hike down is quite beautiful but fairly long. Apr 26, 2017
Tony B
  5.8+
Tony B  
  5.8+
Really fun climbing! Personally, I would call it a 5.8, but that’s just me. The exposed crux in the middle of the second pitch is fun and also has an easy bypass to the left if you don’t do well on thinner holds. Clip the bolt, down-climb a foot or two and run up the bulge on the left. We took the beta above and used a 70m rope for a two-rap decent. The belay/rap bolts on top of pitch two drop you perfectly into the chasm, right above the little tree. All-in-all, super fun climb and you shouldn’t leave the Prophacy Wall without trying it! Apr 23, 2018
Enjoyed the climb but was a bit uneasy about the 2nd to last bolt on pitch two, which was on a giant flake that isn't really attached to the main wall by anything except gravity.

Also, rookie mistake - left our sandwiches in the bag at the base and a squirrel had a nice lunch. Ate a hole right through our bag. Won't do that again! May 25, 2018
combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and it was an awesome climb--especially with the little hop to the main rock wall from the pillar. That route got my 4 stars. first pitch (which friend lead) was alright with a cruxy mantle.

Rappeled from 3rd pitch to 1st pitch with 70 meter rope and barely made it. Sketchy but super fun to swing from the main rock to the pillar where the 1st pitch anchor is. Make sure you tie some well dressed stopper knots. May 29, 2018

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