Type: Sport, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: T.Goss, M. Wells
Page Views: 12,189 total · 79/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Nov 5, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Another fun moderate multipitch route on Prophecy Wall, Past Lives offers good climbing on the varnished holds typical of other routes at Prophecy. The route faces north and goes up a pillar that is separated from the main wall. The route trends slightly left for the entire length.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Start of the base of the pillar and climb up and trend slightly left. Belay ledge midway up the pillar on two rappel bolts.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Continue up pillar past tricky crux with small holds to the top of the pillar. Belay bolts are just below the lip of the pillar.

Pitch 3 - (5.7, 25 feet - 3 bolts) Step off top of the pillar to main wall and climb to the top of main wall.

Descent - 3 rappels down route with a 60 meter rope. The first rappel is fairly straight forward to the top of the pillar. The second rappel drops you straight down the wide chasm between the pillar and the main wall, however. For the last 30 feet you're hanging free of the rock. You'll end up left of the belay ledge and need to push off the main wall with the left leg and make a small leap to the right to get to the last rappel station. Third rappel is basic.

Location

Past Lives is located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, directly right of a black water streak. From the main trail head south at a large sandy area up the wash to a series of ramps. Scramble up the ramps to the base of the north facing pillar that is separated from the main wall.

Protection

9 bolts, plus rappel bolts.

Photos