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Routes in Prophesy Wall

Beware of the Gong S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Book of Prophesy Var., The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Breaking the Sabbath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caging the Zealot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conditional Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Equanimity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
False Prophets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordian Knot S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Grumpy Old Men S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harbingers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Harsh Reality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Time Coming S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunatic Cry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Misfit Prophets S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mystic Dictator S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Non-Technical Church Socks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Past Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prescience S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Put up or shut up T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Remains to be Seen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roofs of Jericho, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Secrets of Fatima, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ship of Fools S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soffit of Jericho, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Softscrub TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sticky Revelations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Technical Knee-Highs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thieves Karma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Visionaries, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wooden Hammer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Goss, Horn, Broderick
Page Views: 2,953 total, 17/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 13, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

This route is the 2nd route from the right side of the cliff. It is about 75ft to the left of Sticky Revelations. This is another great outing on good varnish edges. The first pitch is 145ft long with 12 bolts (5.9+). A mid way station is in place for a short pitch and for rapping. The 2nd pitch follows a short crack to more varnished edges. (5.10c)

Rap the rope with one rope.

Protection

draws...

Photos

karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
BTW - If you are only climbing Pitch 1, it is not 145 feet long, it is more like 115 feet and can be done with a 70m rope by stopping at the triple bolt anchor at the lip of the giant ledge. While leading to this set of anchors I just got to the middle mark of the 70m dynamic rope. Once cleaned and rapped, there is even more rope left from stretch during rap. Since I did not go to the anchors on the ledge where you'd belay for Pitch 2, it does seem that it would require 2 raps to get down from there with a 60 or a 70m rope. Also, keep in mind that your 70m rope may or may not be the same length as my 70m rope. Regardless, TIE STOPPER KNOTS ON THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES! Oct 30, 2017
Be careful on the first rappel from the top. There is a huge cactus to the climbers right of the tree below. Got my rope in it and spent about 20 minutes picking it out. May 18, 2016
Megan Henderson
Ogden, Utah
Megan Henderson   Ogden, Utah
I lead P1 up until the rap anchors. My biggest issue was every single bolt was about 6 inches too high for me to reach from the natural clipping spot! I'm 5'3" and whoever bolted this route did not have shorter leaders in mind. Jul 10, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10c
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10c
Note: I'm basing my ratings off of a comparison to "Conditional Bliss" (5.10a)

This lead was a tough one. If you're just starting on 5.9 leads, I do not recommend leading the first pitch. It was heady for my 5.10 lead self. On the first pitch, once you pass the rap anchors, it gets run out, thin, and vertical (I also had a bit of wind)! I'd say 5.10a/b climbing for sure. Definitely as hard or harder then Conditional Bliss.

The "crack" at the top is not much of crack. There's 2-3 spots where it's wide enough to fit your fingers, but basically I just used it as a stemming feature. I thought this section was also pretty rough. I had to clip off of a finger lock. So I'd rate this a 5.10c. Gear isn't really necessary, as the crack is so tiny you'd only be placing very small C3's. Additionally, the ledge you start on for this second pitch is massive. Get that second bolt and you're safe. Nov 6, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
We did a couple of newer climbs to the right of Visionairies starting from a ledge a pitch up. The left one we did went through a roof and we stopped at the treed ledge. The one to the right of that traversed left onto an arete and then a thin face above an anchor.

Anybody now anything about these? Both were enjoyable. Nov 10, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10a
Ditto on the second pitch. No harder than 5.10a. Certainly not 5.10c. No additional pro seems necessary as the bolts (4) protect the cruxes pretty well and off the deck, the moves are fairly solid. Nov 26, 2007
jtwalter
Orem, UT
  5.9+
jtwalter   Orem, UT
  5.9+
The first pitch of The Visionaries is about as good as it gets on this wall--very fun climbing with a moderate grade. I didn't think the second pitch of this route was .10c. Seemed more like a 9+, if that hard. While the moves were awkward, they weren't difficult at all. We didn't use any additional gear either. The four existing bolts seemed adequate.

Our rope got stuck twice at the top of the second pitch when we were trying to rappel--once in the rock and once it was pinched in the chains. The rock at the top of this rappel can easily snag a rope. Nov 4, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
This is a wonderful route and a classic for the area. The first pitch is nice and long (145ft). Don't miss the last pitch. Sports a nice little finger crack (not much crack) to a little chimney on the side of a roof. I lead the last pitch safely with out any additional gear. It's protected relatively well with 4 bolts. But falling from some spots would probably result in a ledge smack. 3 rappels get you back down to the bottom of this route (there is a rap station half up p1). Oct 11, 2006
Teleman
Steamboat Springs, CO
Teleman   Steamboat Springs, CO
The first pitch is classic beautiful Prophecy Wall face climbing. P2 is worth doing. A few crack moves, but not much crack. If you are solid 10 leader you could lead it with only a couple of draws, but would recommend taking a couple of cams in the Metolius .5-1 range. Apr 12, 2006