Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: T Goss, D. Biniaz
Page Views: 1,512 total · 14/month
Shared By: darrell hodges on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

P1: Ascend what looks like a wide crack with Stegosauraus backplates sticking out of it. The spines are a very unique feature- the likes of which I have never seen. They looked delicate but we didn't break any off. They give you a series of jugs and good feet until they peter out near the top.Most of the climb is pretty easy with a reachy 5.9 crux near the top. Fun fun fun! (110ft)

P2: Ascend a series of softer, more fragile crimps and edges through a small roof, paw around for the solid stuff, then continue to fire the face towards more varnished and secure ground. Cool plates of hard sandstone litter the upper headwall. Persevere and be rewarded. Sketchy fun fun! (90ft)

The climb goes for two pitches. Good if run as a single or mulit-pitch.

Location

Middle of the wall.
As you approach you will see a light colored, slopey looking and pretty featureless wall and you might wonder how there could be a 5.9 there. You don't see the flakes sticking out until you get closer. Look up for the first bolt. It's about 20-25 feet off the ground.

Protection

P1: 10 bolts and rap anchors.
P2: 9 bolts and chains.

A 70 meter rope is recommended, especially if climbing only pitch one.
A 60 meter rope is fine if doing both pitches. Walk off or rap Misfit Profits to the lookers right (South).

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
I am a bit grumpy about this route! The first bolt is quite high and its unnerving climbing on the strange flakes - this was some of the hardest climbing on the pitch and it seemed silly not to have a lower bolt. There maybe protection possible in the crack but I didn't have any with me. Then on the 2nd pitch I could not see the third bolt anywhere above the bulge. After climbing up (and down) a few times to look I bagged it - seemed it would be a bad place to take a long fall.

You can rap from the top of pitch 1 with a 60m. Dec 12, 2011
Patrick Stark
St. George, Utah
  5.10c
Patrick Stark   St. George, Utah
  5.10c
Climbing to the first bolt is fine. Big holds. First pitch has a strange bulging section near the top that will make you think a bit. One would not want to fall sending the roof on the second pitch. The bolt over the roof is out of sight and a fall here could lead to a nice smack on the ramp below. The holds over the roof are solid and the bolt is up there; of course by the time you get to it you don't really need it anymore. Ha! May 5, 2013
darrell hodges
  5.10b
darrell hodges  
  5.10b
A bolt has been added to the start of the first pitch and another one up higher. So, pitch one now has 12 bolts. Mar 22, 2014
Marius vanderMerwe
Saint George, UT
Marius vanderMerwe   Saint George, UT
I hope the bolts were added with the blessing of the first ascensionists. If so, then fine. If not, then please don't modify the routes. There are plenty of other routes with closely spaced bolts to go and climb. This is climbing ethics 101. Mar 23, 2014
darrell hodges
  5.10b
darrell hodges  
  5.10b
The new bolt at the bottom is actually a bit too low to be really effective. If you blow it nearing what is now the second bolt, you'll still deck. Mar 24, 2014
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
1st and 2nd pitches both very fun and very different character. Both pitches are well protected. You do need to pull the little roof on P2 in order to clip the bolt, and it is not visible from below, but this is rock climbing. May 10, 2015