Type: Sport, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Goss, Beck
Page Views: 1,244 total · 9/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

This is a three pitch route up the center of the middle section of the cliff. The first pitch is the crux, but the best climbing is on P2 and P3. The first pitch climbs poor sandy white rock through bulges with undercling moves. P2/3 head up fun moderate varnish climbing to the top of the cliff.

With a 70M rope, long slings, and skipping clips you can combine all three pitches into a monster 230ft lead. Rap three times with a 60M rope...

Location

Located in the center section of the cliff, start on the Jabba the Hut rock leaning against the cliff.

Protection

bunch of bolts...

Photos

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
1st pitch has some very interesting moves and the hardest part are very well protected. Didn't have time to finish but 2nd pitch looked good too. Dec 12, 2011
Ammon Perkes
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a/b
Ammon Perkes   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11a/b
I actually really enjoyed this. A deceptively easy beginning followed by a tricky roof, then lots of strong moves, with pinches, slopers, crimps, jugs, and a lovely hand jam. Personally I think it was a lot tougher than 10c/d but it's possible that we were just tired, or it might be eroded a bit since people posted the ratings.

In related news, as of yesterday there are two quickdraws for anyone who can finish the first pitch before the elements do too much damage. Jan 11, 2015
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
Climbed 5/5. I think this climb is P1, but you have to like tough, loose slab with tricky hands, underlings and poor feet. I onsighted both Harbinger (11b) and this pitch, and P1 of Misfit is harder (10d-11a). P2&3 are fun and easy, with bomber holds, edges and pretty much typical Prophecy climbing.

Climbed Grumpy Old Men (10b) immediately after Misfit and it was much easier. May 10, 2015