Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,542 total · 15/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Oct 10, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Do not camp on the land below and west of the crag. It is private property and is now posted. Details

Description

Another fun long route in character with the rest of the crag. A little run out to the first bolt. Crux is a 3 bolt steep section in the middle of the route. Chains are at the edge of the ledge.

Location

Between Caging the Zealot and Harsh Reality. Rappel the route to descend. Mid route rappel anchors exist at the 8th bolt. I was able to lower completely with a 70M rope.

Protection

12 bolts and chains

Photos

SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
  5.10b
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
  5.10b
My Wife and I climbed this on 10/20/2011 and enjoyed it very much. It was not in the guide book so we just jumbed on it. I thought it was a little easier that 10b if you are tall (9+/10a) but my wife who is shorter than me will agree with the 10b rating. Nov 3, 2011
jtwalter
Orem, UT
  5.10b
jtwalter   Orem, UT
  5.10b
Most of the routes listed on this wall are a bit easier than what is listed for them. I originally listed this as .10b because that was the information given out at the local climbing shop. This one felt right in the neighborhood so I left it as it was given. But yeah, overall most of the routes are easier that what is listed. Nov 13, 2011
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
This route was a blast. A good change from "Conditional Bliss" and "Caging the Zealot". The bulge halfway up was quite fun. My wife, also very short 5'3" actually thought it wasn't too bad. So I don't think height is a factor in making this harder or easier.

I think this is about on par with Conditional Bliss. 5.10a for sure. Not a 5.9+. Nov 6, 2012
boltclippinfool
  5.10a/b
boltclippinfool  
  5.10a/b
That first bolt is definitely up there, but you can clip the first bolt of Harsh Reality with a long runner. There's also another funky run out from the Mid-anchors to the next bolt, which is up and right, over the roof. A #1 or 2 Camalot would've been nice. Fun moves through the first bulge! May 13, 2013