Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Visser (90's)
Page Views: 10,124 total · 50/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

According to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and, according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.'

These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing particularly classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination.

A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top.

Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Location

This route is the 8th from the right on the wall.

Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to its left side and follow the line to the ground. That is the line of this climb.

Photos