Avg: 3.4 from 137 votes
Routes in Chuckawalla Wall
|Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Three Bars Black S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||J. Visser (90's)|
|Page Views:||6,600 total, 39/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 25, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionAccording to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and, according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.'
These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing particularly classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination.
A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top.
Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.
LocationThis route is the 8th from the right on the wall.
Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to its left side and follow the line to the ground. That is the line of this climb.