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Routes in Chuckawalla Wall

Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Bars Black S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Visser (90's)
Page Views: 6,600 total, 39/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


137 Opinions

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Description

According to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and, according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.'

These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing particularly classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination.

A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top.

Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.

Protection

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Location

This route is the 8th from the right on the wall.

Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to its left side and follow the line to the ground. That is the line of this climb.
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.12a
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.12a
LOL! If you guys think this is polished, then you've never climbed at Rifle or Les Bruxes! It's a bit greasy for sandstone, but it's still sandstone. You're not going to slip off the holds unless it's full sun and 80 degrees or hotter. This route was so much fun. I highly recommend it. Nov 27, 2016
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.12a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.12a
Say what you want about this climb, but it is kind of the test-piece for the area. I love the variety -- tricky sequences down low. A nice rest spot in the middle. Big holds on the overhanging prow at the top. It is a really enjoyable climb. Jul 12, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Funny that. I wrote the description, and the consensus pretty much falls in line with what I wrote. I said 3*'s and 12a, and so did about 1/2 of all other opinions. (34 of the 71 reviewers) Some comments mention some detractors, some don't. I guess not all people (Rolofson) are inclined to believe that their opinion isn't really worth anything more than mine. Especially when they are also not locals.
I suppose, I conclude that: 'Mark Rolofson uses the route comment forum to take personal issue with an individual whose comments are reasonably supported by consensus.'

In all seriousness, I hope your day improves from whatever situation inspired you to do that other than to simply disagree. Or if this is just an average day for you, I hope life gets better in general. A nicer demeanor and more positive attitude can nudge things in that direction if you choose to adopt them.

At least your communication isn't involving threats of violence or vandalism this time. I guess that is a fortunate step forward. Mar 2, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
I find it unfortunate that Tony Bubb from Boulder, Colorado wrote the description for this route & not a local. Tony uses the description to disagree with the quality other climbers have attributed to this fine climb. It is a classic overhung soft rock sport climb. Well worth the drive & repeating. Very well bolted with some small edges & engaging clips around 3rd & 4th bolts. The powerful sidepull / sloper finish makes for a sustained .12a. I don't remember the polish. If it's hot it might feel polished. I climbed this route in 2000 & 2009. It's nice to hear it now has glue-ins. Mar 1, 2015
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
Todd Perkins re-bolted the climb today (2-13-2015) with stainless steel glue in bolts. The anchor was also replaced. Jorge Visser the first ascentionist was present at the crag today and climbed it in good style. It was first put up in 1992 according to Jorge. Feb 14, 2015
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11d
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11d
I really enjoyed this climb. Yes, its polished but oh well. The crux was at the 3rd bolt. the moves up high are really fun. There are some very good holds with a big move at the top. i loved the exposure on this climb. you also have a rest around just under the bulge. Loved it! Jun 11, 2008
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
An okay climb with super polished holds....similar to climbing on frictionless limestone May 25, 2007
richard magill
  5.12a
richard magill  
  5.12a
Excellent route - steep with solid holds and great position.

3 stars for sure. Apr 5, 2006
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
When rating rtes those guys and most other people give stars per cliff. That rte is 3 stars for that cliff only!!.Personally I don't give a damn just thought you might need some guidance on such matters. Feb 23, 2004