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Routes in Chuckawalla Wall

Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Bars Black S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 1,403 total · 12/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Jun 11, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Reachy crimpers and a good rest lead to fun thin topout. Crux is the top and after the second bolt with very thin pinchers. A hard 11b and a worthwhile journey.

Location

It has been noted: This is clearly two routes to the right of the easy to spot low anchors of Armageddon. It is the first 5.11 on the wall moving from the right to the left after all of the 5.10 routes. The pic shows the route.

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

pat a
 
pat a  
 
A nice little climb that probably feels a whole lot better on the second or third try. Mid-5.11...once you figure out the beta. The crux was hard to decipher because that pinch around the crux felt necessary-but-heinous. You don't need it, but it sure seems like the obvious way to do it! Everyone in our little crew fell and had to screw around figuring out an alternative sequence. 6 days ago
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.11b/c
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.11b/c
Climbed this 1/2/16. I climbed it without even using that (right pinch) hold above the second bolt (because it's terrible now). It felt like a very stiff 11b move, maybe 11c now. All other moves are 10d-11a ish. Jan 6, 2016
Just so everyone is aware. Someone broke a hold from climbing on this route right after it rained. We need to remember that sandstone, especially chuck's is super brittle and even if you are visiting and "need" to climb at chuck, just save it for another day if it rained. It's not worth breaking a hold over and changing a route forever. The hold that broke is the right side pinch or gaston that's how I used it, right above the second bolt. I couldn't tell if it changed the grade at all but that may be something the community needs to check out. Dec 13, 2015
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11b
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11b
Sandiness, tricky sequences, big pinches and a couple of long run-outs--an exciting climb to be sure. I personally don't like the slabby, thin top section. If someone hadn't kindly made big white tick marks on the only marginal feet near the top, I'd have pitched off for sure. Dec 8, 2014
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.11b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.11b
I deceiving little climb! I thought the crux was after the second bolt since I shot to the chains very easily. The crux move is tough, but once you figure out the correct movements the climb definately stays .11b...still hard for the grade though. Nov 27, 2009

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