Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: M. Tupper
Page Views: 2,389 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ben Schmitt on Mar 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

The hardest route at Chuckawalla, this fun climb starts with some hard slot climbing with bad feet (5.12) with a big right hand throw to a hidden pocket. Do a little hand negotiation and funky moves to gain a good rail up and left, clip, and fire through the marginal pockets, with terrible feet, and throw a heel up and right to gain a big jug hole(V7). The climbing backs off significantly, and is alot of fun moving between the big pods to gain anchors over the lip.

Location

on the far left end of the cave, this is the second route to the right, which branches up and left from a common start.

Protection

6 bolts, some better placed than others, to chains over the lip.

Photos

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Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a
This is probably the most unique climb at the Chuckawalla Wall. Very cool! For me, I thought the crux was the part where the route immediately deviates from the 12b to reach the left rail. Those feet suck! The climbing from hueco to hueco after the crux is the part that I found most enjoyable. Dec 12, 2011
is The beta for the big move better with the dyno or the hand foot match. Which is easier. I have just started working on it and only doing the dyno way. Feb 25, 2014