Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Gordon Larsen
Page Views: 2,215 total · 23/month
Shared By: dnoB ekiM on May 22, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This is a short route on your left when you walk up into the corridor towards the 13's on the far left of Chuckwalla. It is short and a bit sandy. Steep start to slab middle and pod.

Protection

4 Bolts to nice Fixe chain anchors

Photos

Climbed this with my wife. pretty fun climb, but I'm not a pro. I'm a 5.10d climber on a really good day. On a mediocre day, 5.9's can even be challenging. This one was challenging for me.

There's a bulge between the first and second bolt that makes that move pretty awkward. 3rd to fourth bolt we were both having a really hard time finding a foot hold. But we finally got there after multiple attempts. This route is tilted to the right so it feels like you're always falling right.

Great location because it's back in a cavern so it stays shaded later than Chuckwalla wall proper. We were climbing this until 11 a.m. in the heat of St. George in July, and I honestly think we could have stayed out there for a few more hours with no problems. Jul 30, 2011
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
  5.9-
Aaron Shields   Lehi, UT
  5.9-
Too bad this is such a short route, it's a pretty fun one. An easy start to a sandy mantle, then a couple balancy moves and an awkward reach to the final jug(s). We moved into the crack when it started warming up, and this was a fun way to spend another 30 minutes at Chuckawalla. Jul 30, 2012
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
5.10-
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
5.10-
This route is called "Sand Puppy" and was initially rated 5.10-
I bolted it in hopes to establish a less difficult route for beginner climbers. It may be sandy forever. Mar 3, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
A couple of fun moves up there not 9- imo, more like 9. Yes Gordon, the area certainly lacks in easier climbs, and shady climbs too; CHECK AND CHECK. Jun 3, 2013
As an usually comfortable 5.10b/c climber, this climb took some effort. The bulge, much like Drew said, is super awkward and very uncomfortable with only being 12 or so feet off of the ground, then getting to the chains were difficult because of slopey hands and greasy, spotty feet. The .10s on the main wall seem much easier than this .9-. Gordon it will for sure forever be sandy! Apr 19, 2014
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10-
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10-
My son seth, who is 12, and a fledgling leader, really enjoyed this climb. He has led it now a couple of times, and seems to have less trouble on it than I do. Maybe some of the moves favor a shorter climber? Oct 15, 2014
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.9
Short but fun! Sep 20, 2015
Rod J.
Bend, OR
5.10a
Rod J.   Bend, OR
5.10a
I find it hard to believe that anybody could rate this a 5.6 (or even a 5.7). Apr 25, 2016
Chan P.
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.9
Chan P.   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.9
Fun, short route. not many big holds and fairly balancy though for a 5.9 climb. Pulls to the right hard if you TR the route. Apr 12, 2017
Wulfy Wulfenstein  
  5.9
A typical 5.9 it is sweet and short. It has all the holds you need. The middle section has great place for your feet, the last couple moves make you think a little more but not enough to make this a 10. This is the first climb on the left (east facing) wall. May 30, 2017
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
5.10-
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
5.10-
Re-bolted today with glue-in Wave bolts. It should be more secure for quite awhile. Still has sandy holds though. Just the nature of the soft sandstone. Oct 19, 2017