Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Visser
Page Views: 1,607 total · 10/month
Shared By: chris cook on Feb 5, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

2 routes to the left of Second Coming. Just above 2nd bolt gaston with R hand, then up high with L. From 5th to 6th bolt, reachy move with R hand to huge undercling. Good rest just below 5th bolt.

Protection

6 bolts to chains. Quickdraws only.

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.12a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.12a
The crux is between 2 and 3, and the 3rd bolt is pretty high. You need an attentive belayer for this one. The first positive hold is over the bulge and it isn't great. There is a really cool high reach to an undercling pocket near the top. This climb is worth it just to grab that thing. You can see it from the ground, and it is as cool as it looks. Jan 14, 2015
Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
Moving to that big undercling hold at the upper roof was the redpoint crux for me. This is a great route, more sustained and interesting than Second Coming. Getting over the bulge after the 2nd bolt is tough but there are good incuts to clip the third bolt from. The description mentions a right gaston, but there are a couple of ways to use the crux hold. Nov 23, 2016