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5.12a, Sport, 60 ft,
Avg: 3 from 42 votes
FA: J. Visser
Utah > Saint George > Chuckawalla Wall
2 routes to the left of Second Coming. Just above 2nd bolt gaston with R hand, then up high with L. From 5th to 6th bolt, reachy move with R hand to huge undercling. Good rest just below 5th bolt.
6 bolts to chains. Quickdraws only.
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reachy undercling at 5th bolt
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santa clara, utah
The crux is between 2 and 3, and the 3rd bolt is pretty high. You need an attentive belayer for this one. The first positive hold is over the bulge and it isn't great. There is a really cool high reach to an undercling pocket near the top. This climb is worth it just to grab that thing. You can see it from the ground, and it is as cool as it looks.
Jan 14, 2015
Moving to that big undercling hold at the upper roof was the redpoint crux for me. This is a great route, more sustained and interesting than Second Coming. Getting over the bulge after the 2nd bolt is tough but there are good incuts to clip the third bolt from. The description mentions a right gaston, but there are a couple of ways to use the crux hold.
Nov 23, 2016