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The Garden Of Eden
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 83
votes
Routes in Chuckawalla Wall
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Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Three Bars Black S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | T. Perkins (90's) |
| Page Views: | 1,937 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 25, 2003 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Description
This route is best found by walking to the left end of the buttress and then back-tracking to the right 2 lines. The climb can be identified by the features on and around it. On the ground, a swell of rock to the left goes up a little slot to access the ledge before the climb's first bolt. The climb ascends past a bolt below a bulge, over the bulge for a clip that will be either tricky or high-ball (crux, height dependent 10c). Note closing comments on this. Past the second clip the climbing eases slightly to bigger holds and shorter moves (5.9?) on a left-leaning line to reach chain anchors.
Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.
Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.
Sammamish, WA
santa clara, utah