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Routes in Chuckawalla Wall

Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Bars Black S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: T. Perkins (90's)
Page Views: 1,819 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


76 Opinions

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Description

This route is best found by walking to the left end of the buttress and then back-tracking to the right 2 lines. The climb can be identified by the features on and around it. On the ground, a swell of rock to the left goes up a little slot to access the ledge before the climb's first bolt. The climb ascends past a bolt below a bulge, over the bulge for a clip that will be either tricky or high-ball (crux, height dependent 10c). Note closing comments on this. Past the second clip the climbing eases slightly to bigger holds and shorter moves (5.9?) on a left-leaning line to reach chain anchors.

Both the belayer and climber should consider this second clip carefully, as the clip is tricky and insecure from down low and a little highball from past the crux. With the ledge below, blowing the clip could be an ankle-breaker.As well, the previous bolt is long enough that one is tempted to clip it with a longer sling to avoid drag later, but this will lengthen a fall. I caught my partner on 3 lead falls from the crux, each ending perhaps a foot above the ledge. If I'd not paid close attention or if she'd outweighed me, she might have hit it hard.

Protection

A rack of draws, including one longer sling plus something up top for the chain anchor.

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11a
I love this climb. Steep, with good holds, lots of variety (some cool pinches midway...) and a great finish on really big holds. Stays in the shade a really long time. The anchors are super nice, gym-style clips, so you don't need to hang your own gear up there. Aug 12, 2014
Jordy Hanson  
 
That bulge was my undoing. If you move past it quickly, things will go a lot better for ya. Jun 3, 2013
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
I thought this route was really fun. The bulge is slopey but it has a decent clipping stance from below. After you pull over it, enjoy the juggy yet pumpy run to the anchors. Dec 2, 2008