Avg: 2.1 from 107 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||1,504 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 25, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis climb is the fifth from the right on the wall, past a route on the junky-looking blunt arete and the climbs Apostasy, and unknown 5.10, and Dirtbag.
Descend 150 meters from the parking lot to the wall and walk to a line of bolts perhaps 9 meters left or the right-hand edge of the main buttress. Although the line is somewhat squeezed between Dirtbag and Tombstone Bullets, which preceded it by some years, the climbing is reasonably good. You just have to ignore the bolts and holds on T.B. which you could nearly clip.
A slightly powerful crux gets you off of the ground (10a?) and moving up easier climbing for 7 meters to a more blank area of the wall. This crux (10c) can be avoided by stepping left or right to one of the routes it is squeezed between if you like. Then the climb ascends to a final crux near the top (10a), just before the chain anchors. The line has 5 or 6 bolts leading to chains up top. I found this route just a little more difficult than Dirtbag (10a).