Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, recent
Page Views: 1,671 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


116 Opinions

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Description

This climb is the fifth from the right on the wall, past a route on the junky-looking blunt arete and the climbs Apostasy, and unknown 5.10, and Dirtbag.

Descend 150 meters from the parking lot to the wall and walk to a line of bolts perhaps 9 meters left or the right-hand edge of the main buttress. Although the line is somewhat squeezed between Dirtbag and Tombstone Bullets, which preceded it by some years, the climbing is reasonably good. You just have to ignore the bolts and holds on T.B. which you could nearly clip.

A slightly powerful crux gets you off of the ground (10a?) and moving up easier climbing for 7 meters to a more blank area of the wall. This crux (10c) can be avoided by stepping left or right to one of the routes it is squeezed between if you like. Then the climb ascends to a final crux near the top (10a), just before the chain anchors. The line has 5 or 6 bolts leading to chains up top. I found this route just a little more difficult than Dirtbag (10a).

Protection

A rack of draws, plus something up top for the chain anchor.

Photos

Steve Bachmeier
  5.11a PG13
Steve Bachmeier  
  5.11a PG13
Not a 10c, more like an 11a. Dec 1, 2015
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10c
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10c
The top of this is committing and thin. It is definitely harder than tombstone bullets. Easier than Eden. Mar 1, 2016
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.11a PG13
Garrett C   SL, UT
  5.11a PG13
This felt much harder than 10c, especially if the climb next to it is also 10c. Two cruxes, one clipping the second bolt and the second is clipping the chains. Once you get past the last bolt it is very committing with thin, balancy, moves that felt more in the 11 range. My partner fell multiple times right above the bulge before the chains and sprained her ankle, so be careful. I consider myself a decent boulderer and the final moves felt v3-4ish. You're also looking at a ground fall if you miss clipping the second bolt. Dec 25, 2017