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Routes in Chuckawalla Wall

Apocalyptico S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Apostasy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Armageddon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
As the Crows Fly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
As the Jerks Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Capt'n Rehab S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dirtbag S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Cross S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Emergency Exit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Farmers Tan S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garden Of Eden, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Good Old Chuck S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness is Coming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Another Bolt in the Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mecca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pilgrimage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Popular Demand S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sand Puppy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand Witch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sandcastle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Anarchy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sands of Blood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Say Your Prayers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Second Coming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Staloner S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Still Waiting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Bars Black S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tombstone Bullets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vertical Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, recent
Page Views: 1,433 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 25, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is the fifth from the right on the wall, past a route on the junky-looking blunt arete and the climbs Apostasy, and unknown 5.10, and Dirtbag.

Descend 150 meters from the parking lot to the wall and walk to a line of bolts perhaps 9 meters left or the right-hand edge of the main buttress. Although the line is somewhat squeezed between Dirtbag and Tombstone Bullets, which preceded it by some years, the climbing is reasonably good. You just have to ignore the bolts and holds on T.B. which you could nearly clip.

A slightly powerful crux gets you off of the ground (10a?) and moving up easier climbing for 7 meters to a more blank area of the wall. This crux (10c) can be avoided by stepping left or right to one of the routes it is squeezed between if you like. Then the climb ascends to a final crux near the top (10a), just before the chain anchors. The line has 5 or 6 bolts leading to chains up top. I found this route just a little more difficult than Dirtbag (10a).

Protection

A rack of draws, plus something up top for the chain anchor.

Photos

jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10c
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10c
The top of this is committing and thin. It is definitely harder than tombstone bullets. Easier than Eden. Mar 1, 2016
Steve Bachmeier
  5.11a PG13
Steve Bachmeier  
  5.11a PG13
Not a 10c, more like an 11a. Dec 1, 2015