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Routes in Eagle Wall

Dances with Beagles T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Eagle Dance T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+
Kaleidoscope Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Levitation 29 T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mountain Beast T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ringtail T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 700 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste/FFA:John Long, Lynn Hill & Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 77,247 total · 404/month
Shared By: justin dubois on Feb 13, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is considered by many to be the BEST route at Red Rocks. Lynn Hill calls it her favorite route of all time, hard to believe it's better than the free Nose, but to each her own.

It is located up on the Eagle wall, high above Oak Creek Canyon. The approach follows the creek bed to the back of this canyon then turns right and up a steep but walkable slab/ramp to the base of the Eagle Wall. Allow 1-3 hrs for the hike in. The route can be identified by locating the Eagle made of varnished rock, flying west about 1/4 up the wall. Levitation climbs through the tail of this big birdie. Another landmark is the crux headwall on pitch 5, with what appears to be a splitter crack in it. Aim for this.

Pitch 1:locate a nicely varnished and smooth corner system with about 4 bolts near the right side of the Eagle Wall. Climb this awesome pitch to a bolt anchor 100' 5.10

Pitch 2: step right from the belay and gain an open corner. Head up steep but juggy flakes, clipping bolts where gear would work. Aim for the big roof above. Make incredibly fun and exciting moves out this roof with bolts well above your head the whole way, to another bolted anchor. I was tempted to skip some clips exiting the roof as they are 2 ft apart, but clipping them for your 2nd is a nice gesture. 90' 5.11

Pitch 3: Follow a left-trending crack system till it ends, then face climb back right towards a left facing corner. climb up this corner to yet another bolted anchor. there is more gear on this pitch than it looks from below. 100' 5.8

Ptch 4: Climb a line of bolts straight up from the belay passing an awkward bulge, into a crack system. follow this to the base of the headwall with a crack in it. 110' 5.10

Pitch 5: The business. Head up the steep CRACK, with lots of BOLTS next to it. A great exposed pitch. The crux is about 20 ft off the belay, where fist jams and hand jams and finger locks gain a shallow dihedral. fight the pump and it's on to another bolted stance. 90' 5.11 13 bolts.

Pitch 6: Continue with the same crack system but at a less extreme angle to....you guessed it a bolted anchor. 5.10 80'

Pitch 7:Follow a left facing corner to some pumpy liebacking around a bulge. 90'5.10

From here most people rap with two ropes. there are two more pitches, I have not done them or seen them, they are 5.9 and 5.8. You can walk off from th top of the wall, but rapping is casual. I don't know the details of the walk off.

Protection

At least 13 draws, bring more and you can link pitches 5&6. A single rack to #3 Camalot will suffice.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Grade III? Yikes, you must be speedy, Justin! In the Urioste "Red Book", this is Grade V! But this assumes going over the top ... Mar 15, 2004
definitely not a grade III Mar 15, 2004
justin dubois
Estes Park
  5.11
justin dubois   Estes Park
  5.11
OK I did not go over the top, nor did I even do the two pitches after the crux.........I suck. But in my opinion, when it comes to a commitment grade, if EVERY pitch has a huge bolted anchor, just how commited are you? If the Scenic Cruise in the Black is grade V, this can't be more than a III, right?the appraoch should get a V... Mar 15, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I would argue that the presence of rap anchors does not change the grade of the entire climb at all; however, it does make it easier to shorten the route by rapping off early. Heck if you just want to do the first pitch this could be grade I (well, maybe not considering the approach). The grade should be for doing the entire climb plus normal descent, in my opinion. It is true that most people these days don't do the last few pitches, and I agree done this way it is not a grade V. I don't think any less of you for rapping after the crux, I haven't done the route and doubt I could even get up pitch 2. There are no rules here!

Anyway I wouldn't suggest sleeping in and starting the approach at 10 AM for this route, even if you are just planning to go through the pumpfest pitch. The approach is a monster! Mar 16, 2004
TBD
 
TBD  
 
Some additional beta on the approach: Follow the river bed up the canyon until it splits. Take the right fork and follow this drainage until you encounter 2 giant pine trees, one on either side of the drainage. The trees are very obvious when you see them. Follow 3rd class ramps back and up to the right towards the wall. Scramble down an approximate 60 ft. gully (3rd - 4th class) before continuing up again to the base of the wall. This approach took us 2 hours exactly.

We only did the first 6 pitches, but all were of high quality. The first pitch felt a tad awkward and very different from the pitches above, very fun though. The second pitch roof is easy if you climb in a gym at all. I felt some of the climbing prior to the roof to be more difficult. The fifth pitch is not over once you pull through the jams, very fun and technical. Mar 22, 2004
10b4me
5.11a
10b4me  
5.11a
What's up with all this favorite climb crap? How much climbing have you done? Isn't every climb and experience different?! Why all the hype about this or any other climb? People just like to talk, talk, talk!!! May 25, 2004
jeff m giddings
  5.11c
jeff m giddings  
  5.11c
Awesome route! Maybe not the best route at Red Rocks, but it rates pretty high. Much harder than 11a in my estimation. Apr 10, 2005
Drederek
  5.11b
Drederek  
  5.11b
Have done this climb twice now and still prefer Epinephrine. The thin section above the jambs was the crux for me and "power liebacking" pitch with 18 bolts (p6?) was my favorite. This formation has the easiest walkoff of any long climbs at Red Rocks and is almost as scenic as Mt Wilson. Doing the last couple pitches is a small price to pay for such an easy, scenic descent. You just wander back along the ridge toward the drainage (pretty much level) and around the backside of a large red mound (well defined trail) then head right down the smooth, brushfree slabs to the pines and over to your packs. From there there is a much easier descent (and ascent on the way in) which basically goes down to an 8' diameter boulder and then winds around slabs slightly updrainage to the stream. I would highly recommend descending this route before trying to ascend it but once you've done it you'll not go the other way. Apr 17, 2005
10b4me
5.11a
10b4me  
5.11a
I felt a little cheated by the bolts. Easily half of them could have been removed and good gear could be placed.

If this route were in Eldo, there would be 4 total bolts and 3 bent over pitons.

I guess I can't bring my trad ethic on vacation with me. Jan 8, 2006
tenesmus  
 
I totally agree its overbolted, but remember no one made you clip them.
and oh...eldo schmeldo. Sep 10, 2006
4fun  
Great Route!! Favorite pitches are pitch two and the very pumpy and very long lie back pitch. I only had 10 quickdraws so the 18bolt pitch became a little more exciting.

PS. I have done the climb twice, the first time was a couple days after a big rain storm and the gully was roaring with water, the approach took 3 hours and my partner found himself almost swimming in one of the pools. Oct 29, 2006
Kyle vH
 
Kyle vH  
 
Does anyone know if you can rappel this with 1 70m rope?

thanks. Dec 1, 2006
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
I did this route over Thanksgiving break. We rappelled the route with 1 70 m no problem, it was only close for 1 pitch edit: (don't remember which actual pitch this was, post below says pitch 4). For a rack we took quite a bit to link together pitches, Pitch 1&2 and 8&9. I believe we used the #2, but the #3 wasn't necessary unless you want to aid the crux. I also don't remember using any micro cams or wires. Pitch 7 now has something like 18 bolts, but many are easily skippable or back cleanable. Overbolted but feels good on the awful rock of that pitch. Dec 5, 2006
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.11+
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
  5.11+
More beta for rapping with a 70m Rope

We climbed the route on 11/3 and rapped with a 70m rope. It is really close on the rap from the top of pitch 4(the belay below the crux pitch) to the pitch 3 anchors. The ends of the ropes hang just inches below the next set of rap rings without any weight on the rope. We extended our belay devices and with a bit of stretch had no problem with the rap. We had a brand new rope so the amount of rope stretch should not be an issue. Do BE CAREFUL though since it is very very close.

All other pitches reached easily with a 70m rope with many feet to spare.

We easily linked 1&2 and 8&9. The biggest issue was rope drag for both of these links. Make sure to use a long slings at the P1 anchor and before and after the P8 anchor. Nov 5, 2007
Jonas Wiklund
  5.11+
Jonas Wiklund  
  5.11+
Whatever Disturbing the Peace says, if you do this route without any small slcds or wires you pretty much have to solo the 5.8 pitch. Dec 28, 2007
Brad G
 
Brad G  
 
It would be cool to lead this climb without useing the bolts. There seems to be just enough cracks. Very runout and scary though. Jan 1, 2008
Ben Lepesant
Innsbruck, AT
 
Ben Lepesant   Innsbruck, AT
 
a great route. I enjoyed the approach a lot 'cause it's fun jumping trough the river bad. You can easily skip the last part of the creek by walkong up rightwards slabs to a boulder and then scramble up an arete and walk down (40m) to the start. You absolutely NEED small wires for the third 5.8 pitch unless you are suicidal. Holds can break here!!
We rappeled after the 6. pitch, every pitch was fun...
We rapped with a seventy meter rope, and it was ok. Mar 22, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
good route- very rewarding. went to the top- then rappelled the route with a single 70m line (new sterling 9.5mm) with no problem- that rap from 4 to 3 is super close- its exactly 35m between bolts (maybe 36m).

for a rack, if i were going to do it again, i'd take a single set of nuts and gear to a #1 camalot- i think both the number 2 and 3 camalots are totally optional.

oh, and i'll call this one a solid grade IV if you go to the top. Dec 10, 2008
Karsten Delap
North Carolina
 
Karsten Delap   North Carolina
 
Use caution with the 70m rope. Our rope (an older Mammut); and another party's rope (Maxim?) did not reach. The other party had extended the rappel devices; rapped to the knots and had to clip in 3 or so feet above the belay. Our rope didn't even come close. 10 ft short? Mar 8, 2009
you can get to the base of the eagle wall in a little over an hour from oak creek parking. see direct approach beta on the main eagle wall page. Mar 11, 2009
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Did the route yesterday (4/25/09)...as fantastic as advertised. I agree with vegastradguy's rack: single set of nuts (being about 4 med-large size) and up to #1 cam (with nuts, probably just a .75 and 1 would be fine). Rapped with single 70m no problem. The last 2 pitches are worth doing once - fun movement on hollow flakes, certainly not mega classic but entertaining enough. Highly recommend the crux pitch extension if you still have a few draws left at the top of the 11c...not only a fun pumpy linkup but you get to skip a hanging belay! Apr 26, 2009
With a 70, you can link 3&4 5&6 8&9. GREAT LINKUPS!!!!!!!!!!!

PS. The walk off is a must, not bad at all, takes about the same amount of time a rapping (maybe just a little longer). Dec 11, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Awesome route on an awesome wall. No one else in the canyon the whole day, but we were greeted by two bighorn sheep on approach! Walk off was fun but a bit icy this time of year. I would rate the pitches as follows (and by the way, I would say grade IV if you top out, but no one asked me...):

1: 5.10c. Fun but tricky.
2: 5.11a. Tricky stemming to a great jug crux.
3: 5.8. Very fun for the grade.
4: 5.10a. Cool edging.
5: 5.11c. Outstanding face and crack climbing; the money pitch.
6: 5.10d. Technical edging leads to easier crack climbing.
7: 5.11a. A sustained and pumpy pitch. Great climbing but soft rock.
8: 5.10a. Crux move off the belay to 5.9 slabbing on soft rock.
9: 5.8/5.9. Soft rock, not great but you're almost at the top!
10: 5.5. Easy, link this with 9. Jan 1, 2010
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Onsighted the first 11a, 10b, and linked the last two pitches (bad rope drag). Rapped the route, the walk off looked and sounded nightmarish. We bivied a half hour from the route the night before and got the route done with by 1pm. Beautiful route. Apr 4, 2010
Kirk L
Fort Collins, CO
Kirk L   Fort Collins, CO
Is it possible to safely lead the crack sections on gear? hows the rock quality? Oct 16, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
Sure- the rock quality is better than most routes in red rock- but while I'd say the route has a fair number of bolts that protect a crack, it's not an overwhelming number. The route is what it is, and the fact that you can hike up there with 6 cams and 18 draws and fire that route casually is pretty nice. Oct 17, 2010
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
Great memories of this route! Did it once with Raleigh Collins (RIP) in 1996. After a late drive from his hang in JTree, we crashed at a lady friend of his' house in Vegas. The plan was to get up super early and hike in to do a couple routes including L29. While I slept, Raleigh and said lady friend partied it up with lots of alcohol and some funny stuff and much crazy sexual exploits which I learned about later...Anyways, my alarm woke me up to the low hum of some music from the bedroom. I banged on the door and after a "Yo dude!!!" or two, RC comes to the doorway looking like, haha, well he looked like he had quite the evening! After half sleeping in the car and excitedly telling me some details of the night, we got to the trailhead. Part way up the hike, Raleigh hurls and painfully continues for a few minutes. At this point, I don't feel sorry for him but I do ask if we should continue. Anyone who knew him would know his pride. We continued to the base and after he puked again, we started up the route. I led every pitch and he followed clean. It's not a particularly difficult route but in his condition, that's like a different situation. I remember him really trying to hold back another hurl-episode while I was leading...lots of muffled coughing until I got to an anchor up high...then he released more bile in a convulsion of sorts-Yikes! We topped out, gave a high-five and proceeded on the descent. I told him that even though we were only doing one route, unlike we had planned, I was still psyched and proud of him for trooping up there and keeping it together. Raleigh was a proud man, in my eyes. Even though I did know of some of his personal troubles, I never knew what really ate away at his core. It really rocked me when I heard of his death in 2006, which appeared to be suicide. Raleigh was a great friend to me, I still miss him! Nov 22, 2010
J.B.  
For those of you who haven't read this:

rockandice.com/articles/how… Apr 22, 2011
Pitty
Marbach
 
Pitty   Marbach
 
Great, really superb! One of the best!
We were afraid by reading the expected times for climbing and aproach but did it in 7 hours, car to car in the end. Apr 27, 2011
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Deserves every bit of the hype it gets. Pitch after pitch of amazing climbing, great exposure and a remote feeling. We walked off and found it extremely straightforward - the last 5.9 pitch was a little gritty but still good fun. Views were awesome. If you commit to the approach finish the route and walk off it's worth it. Jul 25, 2011
Rob DeZonia  
 
This was one of my first roped climbs in Red Rocks. I remember being really disapointed. We had just done a trip to the Black Canyon and I was expecting a little bit more of an adventure. The first pitch was great. The rest seemed mediocre. This is a feel good route and great for someone new to 5.11. I climbed aross some really sandy 5.10 that I didn't expect on an ultra classic. I think you can clip three bolts from one stance next to a fist sized crack on the crux pitch. I've never gotten over that first impression.
My friends think I'm crazy for not liking it. After climbing a couple routes in Red Rocks, I can look back and remember a good route. Sep 4, 2011
Grant Gerhard
Las Vegas, NV
Grant Gerhard   Las Vegas, NV
At what grade should a trad leader be confident at to do this climb? Are the 10c moves on the first pitch protected by gear or the 4 or so bolts? thanks Oct 11, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
You'll want to be a solid 5.10 trad leader, especially for the first two pitches. I remember everything hard is protected well by bolts (except the second pitch for some reason- still protects well, and the bolts are there for the crux).

That said, don't underestimate this climb- its well bolted, but its also solid 5.11 climbing. I had an easier time on the Rainbow Wall 5.11 pitches than I did on the crux of this beast. Oct 11, 2011
Josh Janes    
 
Beta for solid climbers:

Bring a lot of draws/slings (15-18), green through orange Aliens, no wires, and a 70m rope. With this rack, you'll have to be careful on the first pitch, and you'll have to run out the third 5.8 pitch significantly, but neither are unreasonable. After P3 you need no more trad gear.

Link 1 & 2 (awesome mega-pitch)
Link 3 & 4 with 5-10' simulclimbing
Link 5 (crux) & 6 to avoid a hanging belay
Link 7 & 8
Link 9 & 10 to the top

Skip bolts, back clean, and use runners well to avoid rope drag on all these linkups.

The rap down P4 is very tight... exercise exteme caution. All other raps are fine with a 70m. Nov 29, 2011
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.11c
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.11c
Just further confirming you can rap with a single 70m rope, as stated P4 rap is very close Feb 14, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Fun climb. Enjoyed all the pitches except 7 as that soft white rock just isn't my favorite. Very insecure. However pitches 1 and 2 were some of my favorite red rock pitches I've done. Loved topping out. I personally didn't mind the tight bolt spacing of pitch 5 as I am a certified wimp. Definitely more of a sport climb than trad climb, but almost every pitch requires at least one gear placement. I brought the #2 but no #3 camalot and thought that was appropriate. It took us around 6.5 hours to climb all 9+ pitches of this sucker with no linkups. As for belay ledges(an enjoyable and important aspect of a climb for me), here is a brief synopsis:
pitch 1-semi decent slanting scoop flake ledge thing, can stand on it unsupported
2-borderline crappy, a small ledge
3-2nd best of route, ok ledge
4-hanging belay on slab, not cool
5-full on hanging belay, sucky!
6-best of climb, small, but you can actually sit down!
7-eh, not so good but ok. small but adequate
8-pretty good, hanging on moderate slab, better than 4
9-if rappeling, anchor spot not good, if walking down link to top tree, lie down on top with gear sprawled across time and space Feb 22, 2012
FCJohn
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11+
FCJohn   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11+
We parked at the old Oak Creek Campground, took the creek to the pine trees, then directly up the slabs. Took us about 3 hours. We took a few wrong turns at various forks in the trail coming from the road which caused us to zig zag back and forth through the wash. I figured that we could have shaved off at least 30 minutes if we parked on the loop road and knew the trail. The route had fantastic position, but honestly didn't live up to the hype. Pitch 2 was fun movement, but chossy.... Happy with a rack of cams .3,.4,.5,.75, #1, #2 & a few stoppers.... Apr 4, 2012
Pete Muffoletto
Oakland, CA
Pete Muffoletto   Oakland, CA
Fun route. Super long approach that is easy to make longer than necessary if you delineate from the path. It's a pretty linear approach and impossible not to spot the wall but it is very possible to find yourself zig zagging from one side of the wash to the other. From what I have gathered from many other parties the best way to approach is to go the long way up the 3rd class approach. You definitely do not want to get caught doing the 4th class approach in the dark.

What surprised me about this route was the poor quality of rock on pitch 2. Super fun movement but pitch 2 might not exist in a few years. Exercise caution at the crux and DO NOT touch that hanging fang. It's apparent that people have been using it for feet and maybe a hand but that thing will rip if you were to give it a nice kick. Sorry for the beta spoiler but throw a heel hook on the jug below it to avoid the fang. Don't kill your belayer and the 10 parties that are probably waiting below you. Apr 9, 2012
pspoutz Spoutz
Livonia, MI
 
pspoutz Spoutz   Livonia, MI
 
70 meter rope worked great for us for 4th pitch rappel. Extending rappel device helped make it work smoothly. May 25, 2012
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
 
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
 
Can you rap this route if you top out? Or is it easier at this point to just hike the descent? Sep 28, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
Its probably a toss-up between descending via the Chicken Lips descent (see that info on the Upper Painted Bowl page) and rappelling the route. You can get back to the last anchor, but its kind of exposed 4th class to do so. My partner topped out to check the view while I waited at the last anchor (I had been to the summit before) and then I belayed him back and we rapped down.

The last bolted anchor is at the top of the technical climbing- to top out, you 4th class up about 100'-150' to the top of the wall and walk off. Sep 28, 2012
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.11c
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.11c
As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts).

Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next time, too. Fun climbing in an awesome position...love it!

Apr 3, 2013
steple
 
steple  
 
Pitches 5 and especially 7 are stellar, but what makes the route a Favorite in my opinion is the variability of the climbing (from fingers to fists, from balancy, delicate face to overhanging jugs) paired with the consistently high quality. Thanks Lynn. May 2, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11
Don't let the approach scare you too much. We parked at the Oak Creek pullout on the loop and hiked in. We took a couple breaks and hiked casually, and got to the base of the climb in 2 1/2 hours. Approach beta we used: pretty much just follow the trail until it breaks down into the wash (don't go into the wash too early), head up the wash until you see two really large pine trees, and head up following cairns directly right of the large pine tree on the right. There are several pretty slick areas where you traverse across slab in the wash as the canyon narrows, but the traverses aren't too bad if you are careful. The traverses aren't exposed, just really slippery. There really isn't a reason to bivy at the base of the route. Pack light and just hike the approach the day of your climb. I took 4 liters of water and was dry just before we got back to the car.

We were back at the car 12 hours from the time we left it with plenty of daylight left, following the same route on the way out as the approach in. And I hiked out with a sprained ankle. I sprained it at the base of the climb looking up at the first pitch and not paying attention to the trail! Ugh... Still managed to lead pitches 2, 5, 6 & 7. My foot started to really swell up badly on the rappel. Hobbling out was the hardest part of the day for me. The pitch 7 crux is short, but the rest of the pitch is extremely sustained .10+ climbing. Get ready for the pump! The pitches are all pretty short, and go quickly as long as you don't dog up them.

The hanging belays sucked on the rap. We used a single 70m and just made the before mentioned rap with very little rope to spare. I would take twins next time I do this just to shorten the number of rappels. Or a 60m with a tag line. May 10, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
I guess the fist crack bulge is the tech crux of p5, but it's not an 11c move--it's just a steep enduro pitch. I fell a few bolts higher, as did the leader behind me. P2 is the highlight in my opinion, and the p2 crux may be the hardest move on the route. A little reachy. Gear wise it all depends on how you feel about running out easy face climbing on "pretty good" sandstone edges and plates. #.3-#2 C4's and 3-4 med to large nuts is conservative. If you bring a #2 it is worth taking with you on p4 before the first bolt--after that it's all bolts, plus one optional medium nut near the top of p5. There's a fixed red offset nut here as of 1/18/14. Jan 21, 2014
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
HELP! I know this is a long shot, but I lost a yellow Millet Jacket on 2/25. If anyone found it PLEASE let me know. Good will and beer can come your way.


As for the route, I thought the p5 crux was way harder than the p2 crux, but maybe that's because I'm a stronger sport climber. I thought P2 was pretty easy. Most of the climb in general I thought was fairly easy climbing with occasional hard moves. I thought the rest of P5 was pretty easy, though it did have one techy spot after the fist (or crimp) move at the beginning of it. I would highly suggest a super light rack. Most of the gear sections are easy and can just be run out. Mar 4, 2014
Matt Callender
Pasadena CA
Matt Callender   Pasadena CA
1) Hey DCSwish, I found your jacket! I sent you a message on here.
2) I'll go ahead and just echo DCSwish's comments (above) on the route. His assessment of pitch difficulty and required rack are spot on. An excellent route for sure!! Mar 18, 2014
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
 
Levitation 29 is the best long route I have ever done!
-We did the short slab approach heading up them right after the wash split. Wasn't too bad on the way up but we went down some easier slabs near the massive trees.
-Pitch 5 is burly, the crimps after the crux are sustained!
-Dont underestimate Pitch 7, the climbing is super different than the rest of the route.
-Pitch 2 is great, super fun moves!
-Go do it!! Apr 2, 2014
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
I added some new beta for the "fast approach" to the Eagle Wall page. This approach is much faster and less strenuous - save your energy for the route! It took me 90 minutes from the car to the base of L29 and I wasn't pushing it. May 22, 2015
Will Wright
  5.11b
Will Wright  
  5.11b
You can rap pitches 7,6, and 5 with two 70 m ropes. Knot the ends and stay to your right. Dec 4, 2015
Climbed this last week and wanted to comment on the approaches. All 3 Handren options are very evident. The first looked like easy climbing (but still climbing) to slabs, so we walked on. We hiked up the 2nd Handren option to drop some gear, and I was terrified. The slabs are very exposed and a no fall zone. Sticky approach shoes recommended! I was more than relieved when a couple at the base showed us the 3rd, "long and slow" option for our ascent the next day. YMMV. Maybe you feel comfortable traversing exposed, exfoliating slabs high above a valley or even climbing up the "fast approach," but I could not recommend those in good faith. Hiking to the 2 GIANT trees is the only option I would take & recommend. Mar 23, 2016
Dan Ressler
Silver Spring, MD
Dan Ressler   Silver Spring, MD
Long winded trip report here. Apr 22, 2016
almostrad
Lake Tahoe
almostrad   Lake Tahoe
Really fun route, I just wish it wasn't so littered with bolts.

You can literally Z-Clip on this thing.

With that said, the climbing is so varied it feels like 3 routes in one.

No small wires needed IMO.
For people climbing at the grade, a light rack down to .3 should be plenty. May 3, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Graceful, challenging movements on a highly improbable line. The rock is so good, it feels like granite on the lower pitches. But why so many bolts?? I don't understand how it was decided to install those bolts that are literally right next to perfect cracks!! IMO this "manufactured" aspect automatically erases its candidacy for best climb in the world, or RR for that matter. Would love to see somebody send it on all-natural pro someday.

P1: This one caught me off guard. Tricky and tenuous with plenty of spice. Careful clipping the first bolt, its pretty high off the deck with no gear below. (5.10+)
P2: Amazing!! You won't believe the roof pull until you're right there underneath it, underclinging on the most heroic jugs you've ever seen. The excitement factor is somewhat stifled by excessive bolts, but this allows leaders who aren't solid at the grade to give it a few safe burns. (5.11-)
P3: Steep face climbing on perfect flakes. Protects very well throughout; not even close to R-rated. (5.8)
P4: Cruxy bolted face off the belay followed by a cruiser crack. (5.9)
P5: Pulling the initial bulge on a single fist jam is the most challenging move on the entire wall, especially if you're running out of energy. Above this, the climbing remains technical and sustained at the 5.11- grade. Good thing it's practically a bolt ladder! (5.11)
P6: Continued techy climbing. Not quite as difficult as the previous pitch, but no gimme either. (5.10+)
P7: A transition into sandier rock gives this pitch a unique character. Better hope you've got lots of energy left in the tank for the pumpy upper half! Feels wild and insecure at the top. (5.10+)
P8: Don't skip out on this pitch! It's a nice dose of high-exposure face climbing. Crux is the sporty mantle right off the belay, and then it eases off considerably. (5.10-)
P9: Continues easing off toward the summit. (5.7)

Rappel: Can be done with a single 70m rope if you attach a pull-cord for the P4 rap. Nov 14, 2016
Where's Walden
  5.11c
Where's Walden  
  5.11c
We arrived at the route at 12:30 on a Saturday expecting to jump on P1 with other parties up high. Instead there were 10 people on pitch 2-4. Be warned.

This route seems to draw a lot of 5.9-5.10 leaders, and it turns into an awful traffic jam. Don't get on this route unless you can climb 5.11 and have your multipitch skills dialed! Nov 27, 2016
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
  5.11c
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
  5.11c
The route deserves the hype it gets.
I think every pitch (of the 6 we did) would've been 3 or 4 stars as a stand alone crag at most crags.

If you want to be first in line (Which I'd highly suggest) I'd park outside the loop, and walk the extra mile rather than wait for the gate to open.

We were in line when the gate opened and did the approach in just over 2 hours, and still had 2 groups of 3 in front of us.

It's a trade route on a holiday though. If you expect solitude I'd suggest climbing elsewhere.

Also see the approach beta described in the section for Eagle Wall.

And yes, I'd call this III or III+ Nov 29, 2016
David Bruneau
St. John
 
David Bruneau   St. John
 
For a lightweight day on Lev. 29 (up to the top of P9): We found that 3 cams (.4, .5 and.75 X4) plus a set of DMM offset nuts was an adequate rack. We are by no means bold climbers and nearing our limits on the crux pitches. We didn't place any gear above P4 either, though off the belay on P5 it may be nice to have a .4 or .5 cam. 16 draws seemed to work with only p6 and 7 linked (backcleaning when convenient). Also we brought a slightly shortened 70m and made the P4 rap with a 10m cordalette as a pullcord and a biner block. Nov 29, 2016
Can this route be done completely without pro, or is it imperative that you bring nuts/cams? Mar 28, 2017
Aaron Glasenapp
Denver, CO
Aaron Glasenapp   Denver, CO
RE: Climbing levitation without pro. I can only speak for the first 5 pitches, which we did last week, but from reading other comments, I gather that P6-9 are all thoroughly bolted.

I think P1-5 could be done without gear by a very competent, cool headed 5.11 leader. Definitely would be at least an R rating though.
P1: 4(ish) bolts for ~100 feet. Some 5.10 moves above bolts. PG-13 (maybe R).
P2: An awkward move off the belay , then maybe a 20 foot runout, then fully bolted to the next anchor. PG-13.
P3: ~100+ feet of 5.8 with 2 bolts. A no-fall lead if you're only using the bolts, but the harder moves are near the bolts. R
P4: 20 foot runout start, then pretty well bolted face climbing, then another runout crack to the top. PG-13
P5: Bolts galore (except the first 15 feet).

IMO, it would not be as fun if you treated it as a sport route. Might at well bring a small rack. We took a single rack to a #3 camelot and definitely had enough. You could slim it down depending on how comfortable you are on 5.8 - 5.10. The #3 was nice, but not mandatory. Mar 29, 2017
No problem rapping P4 (and everything else) with a 70m. No need for a pull cord or extended belay device.

Take 5 cams (.3-#1 camalot) and 15 draws and have fun. Yes, the approach and descent stinks but it is what it is. At least the packs are light.
Great route Mar 30, 2017
Jeremy Kasmann
Denver, CO
Jeremy Kasmann   Denver, CO
Great route - p1, 2, and 5 stood out with really fun movement. It felt like grade III to us, definitely not V. We parked just outside the loop exit, used the modified wily climber beta, and descended the middle guidebook route (bit of 4th class). 9h c2c. If I did it again I would rap after p6, the rock on p7 turns to junk. .3-2 with four DMM alloy offsets was plenty of pro, 70m fine for the raps. Apr 12, 2017
If you want a little bit of everything kind of climbing, go for Pitch 7. I didn't find the rock junky or crumbly. I like it exactly because it is so different from the earlier pitches. And it actually felt surprisingly hard after the earlier pitches of harder grades, but that might be because I linked P6 with it and was feeling the off balance pull by the rope drag. The insecure feeling on this pitch is pretty exciting, but the bolts are abundant.

FYI: as of today (11/7/2017), the bolt on P5 just after you turn the small roof (fist jam) can be completely pulled out by hand easily. Don't worry; we inserted it back in. No biggie really because you are at an easy stance already for the clip and next bolt is not far. Nov 7, 2017
  • *would love to go back for this one, my climbing partner was linking p1&2 And didn’t place gear between the anchor of 1 and the first bolt on the 2nd pitch, after slipping he took a nasty little fall and we bailed leaving a nut, a draw and an alpine draw, would be super rad to get some gear back if possible! Cheers to the climbing party that helped me get him and our gear out.
Dec 5, 2017
Tane Owens
Denver, CO
 
Tane Owens   Denver, CO
 
Some beta on the last two pitches and the walk-off through Oak Creek.

Pitch 8: The 5.9+ version of p7. Sandy white rock with a some balancy reaches. Not great climbing, but not terribly difficult. Bolted anchor. ~8 bolts

Pitch 9: Actually kinda fun. 5.9- with better rock quality than the last two pitches. 10 bolts, ~150' if you link this into the last bit of 5.5 to a nice landing near a tree and bolted anchor. (only 90' if you split these two pitches up).

Decent: Continue up and left through a short ascending gully to a small cairn (a little difficult to see from down low). Follow multiple cairns across a large slab until you can circle North around some big sandstone cliffs (George Washington). From here the trail is straightforward, fun, and the sights are beautiful all the way down some slab to the Oak Creek wash. Allow 2-3 hrs to get back to the Oak Creek parking area from the summit of Levitation. Dec 5, 2017
Natalie Nicole
San Francisco, CA
Natalie Nicole   San Francisco, CA
Attempted the route, but got held back by the first party who bailed after not being able to send pitch 5. I agree with Raddam6's comment warning against people getting on the route without being competent 5.11 climbers with decent multipitch skills; no party got to the top that day because of the first party.

With that said, if I were to do it again I would second Christian Mason's beta to start the hike in well before the gate opens; park outside the park and hike in. Not so much as to give you more time to do the climb, but just to ensure you're the first party.

We only got to finish pitch 5 before it was our turnaround time. Pitch 2 had the best climbing in my opinion. I'm 5'2 and didn't find it reachy, but definitely used a combination of my sport and trad climbing moves to make it so. One 70m rope works just fine for rapping. We had to do a little work for the Pitch 4 rappel, but nothing too crazy.

Oh and it can get real toasty up there baking in the sun all day. Remember to bring enough water for the hike+time spent roasting on the wall as well as some sunscreen! Jan 2, 2018
Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
 
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
 
+1 to Natalie & Raddam's comments. We had a similar issue with a member of the party ahead hangdogging the entire climb. They were the first party (barely), but it's inconsiderate. Please be comfortable on 5.11 terrain and placing gear before hopping on this. Feb 26, 2018
Aaron covington
Pinon hills, ca
 
Aaron covington   Pinon hills, ca
 
approached the easy long way in 2 1/2 hrs from the rd. long....... Route was fun but I wouldn't go as far as saying the best route in redrock. It is fun, and was nice not seeing a sole out there other than another party we knew! 70 meter looks us up and down. could've linked almost every pitch if you have a ton of draws with you. Mar 6, 2018
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
If you're checking the weather before heading out here, probably the ideal situation is high 50s with near-zero wind, or low/mid 60s with a little wind. We expected to be warm in the full sun on a day with a high of 54, but were rather uncomfortable with some 15-20mph wind gusts blasting us on all the hanging belays and during the balancy cruxes. It really would be a much better experience on a near-zero wind day. Comfy hooded windbreaker definitely recommended if there's any wind predicted. If it's a coldish day, I highly recommend taking the time to throughly warm up on the ground with some dynamic stretches, etc. lest the chill contribute to flash pumping early on the route (as definitely happened to us)

Regarding the climb itself, my partner and I both agreed that the individual cruxes were easier than we expected, but the sustained nature of the climbing was harder than we expected. With the exception of pitch 3, it stays on you the whole time with very few rest stances and delicate climbing. We placed gear maybe 10 or 12 total times on the whole climb (across 4 or 5 of first 7 pitches), so while the gear is definitely helpful, the climb feels like a "big boy" sport climb vaguely reminiscent of the harder lines in El Potrero Chico, such as El Sendero Diablo.

We started rapping at 3pm-ish from the top of pitch 7, and made it back to the car with plenty of daylight to spare on a late March day. While the remaining pitches looked pretty fun, I'm glad we did it this way vs. push the daylight a bit, as the sustained climbing pretty much ends at pitch 7. Mar 18, 2018
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
This is a fun route that definitely changes character after the 6th pitch, but my partner and I found every pitch to be enjoyable. The first 6 pitches are mostly on desert varnish, while the last 3 are on softer sandstone reminiscent of the Sandstone Quarry in the loop.

If you intend to climb this route, be seriously careful around that large hanging fang on the 2nd pitch roof. The fang is in a position that makes it tempting to stem onto, but it sounds very hollow. If the fang were to fall, it could easily take out your belayer and/or parties below- best to avoid using it entirely. Apr 2, 2018
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
Loose block on crux pitch took me by surprise. Luckily it didnt hit my wife or party below. More of this block will sluff off so take care, it wasnt super obvious to me especially being on such a classic route. Even with that less than stellar section Levitation was one of the most enjoyable rock climbs Ive done. Our 70m Elderid reached the long rap no problem. The 7th pitch is for sure worth doing! Apr 7, 2018
Re rock fall at pitch 5 hand jam crux:

Ha, we were the party below!

I went up after, don't think it affected the grade (but still a very steep for its grade).

Also Brandon, we found Aaron and Sam, all safe and found! Nice meeting you guys! Apr 9, 2018
wakaranai
Mount Vernon, WA
wakaranai   Mount Vernon, WA
Glad to hear! I think next time we'll go to the top and experience the walk off. Hope you guys enjoyed the rest of your trip, we're baxk in rainy WA now :( Apr 10, 2018
My partner and I swung leads on this in early April. It lived up to the hype.

We found the climbing consistently excellent. The first two pitches really stood out in terms of rock quality (I wish I had linked them), and the fifth through seventh for their position and sustained nature. As others have noted, the final two pitches to the top change in character substantially and are interesting and fun in their own unique right.

We started at 5:45 from the pullout on 159. We took the long approach and, with two breaks totaling 30 minutes, arrived at the base after 2.5 hours. We were not pushing the pace. We topped out after about 5 hours of climbing, took a lunch and nap on the summit, and walked off in 2.5 hours, really enjoying the well-marked and scenic descent. It took about 12 hours car to car without ever rushing.

Other notes: Pitch one should not be underestimated; I found it the most thought provoking on the route. The crux favors those with crack climbing inclinations and big hands. I climb 10+ trad and 12- sport and was very comfortable on every pitch—if you’re solid leading the grade on bolts, don’t be intimidated (to be honest, we were before we started climbing). A 70m rope should work to rappel (as others note), as our Bluewater bicolor 70m was never more than half out at the end of a standard pitch. The route is certainly well bolted, but wasn’t as bad as the inter webs made me expect. We placed no trad gear on the last two pitches and felt well protected, but couldn't have imagined climbing pitches one through four without our single rack of nuts and .4-2 BD cams. Highs in Vegas were 88 the day we climbed, there was no cloud cover after mid-morning, and we still ended up climbing the last few pitches in light jackets.

Go do it. Apr 16, 2018
justin M
Davis, Ca
justin M   Davis, Ca
I brought a single rack .3-2 and place one cam the entire climb. If I do it again I would only bring a rack of nuts. Jul 30, 2018
Can anyone tell me if there is a stream nearby? I am going down in November and was hoping to camp/bivy at the base and spend 2 days on the cliff, one day for Levitation 29 and one day for Eagle Dance. Just wanting to know if I need to carry in all my water or not. Sep 21, 2018
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
i don't remember there being any water at all. there is a nice bivy ledge right at the base of L29 though. Sep 21, 2018
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
No water and probably not necessary to bivy up there unless you really want to. With a 90 minute hike in and a quick rappel descent, it's pretty reasonable to just hike in each day. Sep 23, 2018

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